Does this seem fair?
Hi all,
I'm looking at regearing my JKX to 4.56 from 3.21 and putting a trutrac LSD up front and most likely a Detroit locker in the rear (unless somebody can give me a reason worth $xxx).
So I called up Independent 4x in Ashland, Va and told them what I wanted and they called me back with a quote of $3,000 before tax. $3800 with an ARB rear air locker. So after the minor heart attack, I ran some numbers...
Detroit Trutrac by Eaton Performance Limited Slip Differential: $434
Detroit Rear Locker: $700
Gears: $250
Labor: 8 hours maybe? = $800
Totaling up to $2184 so where is the other $816 coming from? They said they would be needing to change my diff oil, which I know isn't a $816 job.
Is 3 grand about right for this? Does anybody know another shop in Va that might be a little lower? On my budget, I was aiming to pay $2,000 cash by the time it was all said and done. (Hoping 2 grand right in front of them persuades them enough, maybe?)
I'm looking at regearing my JKX to 4.56 from 3.21 and putting a trutrac LSD up front and most likely a Detroit locker in the rear (unless somebody can give me a reason worth $xxx).
So I called up Independent 4x in Ashland, Va and told them what I wanted and they called me back with a quote of $3,000 before tax. $3800 with an ARB rear air locker. So after the minor heart attack, I ran some numbers...
Detroit Trutrac by Eaton Performance Limited Slip Differential: $434
Detroit Rear Locker: $700
Gears: $250
Labor: 8 hours maybe? = $800
Totaling up to $2184 so where is the other $816 coming from? They said they would be needing to change my diff oil, which I know isn't a $816 job.
Is 3 grand about right for this? Does anybody know another shop in Va that might be a little lower? On my budget, I was aiming to pay $2,000 cash by the time it was all said and done. (Hoping 2 grand right in front of them persuades them enough, maybe?)
Last edited by JK505; Nov 19, 2014 at 03:48 PM.
Rates vary wildly by location, and east coast rates are generally known to be very high. There are a few shops in California and Texas and now Colorado that offer $1000 gear swaps (parts/labor/out the door). $1600ish seems to be fairly average overall. And as you found, a few places think that 2-3k for new gears is reasonable.
All you can do is shop around to see if you can find lower rates. But, be sure to get reviews/feedback before just going with the lowest rate. And you also have to get numbers on any extra work that has to be done to make a fair comparison. Like the truetrac uses hardened steel, and it is not unusual to have an extra charge for a machine shop to drill out the bolt holes. Or for a selectable, an extra charge for running the lines and mounting the switches. Or even whether the quote is including the air source or not.
All you can do is shop around to see if you can find lower rates. But, be sure to get reviews/feedback before just going with the lowest rate. And you also have to get numbers on any extra work that has to be done to make a fair comparison. Like the truetrac uses hardened steel, and it is not unusual to have an extra charge for a machine shop to drill out the bolt holes. Or for a selectable, an extra charge for running the lines and mounting the switches. Or even whether the quote is including the air source or not.
Last edited by nthinuf; Nov 19, 2014 at 04:01 PM.
Rates vary wildly by location, and east coast rates are generally known to be very high. There are a few shops in California and Texas and now Colorado that offer $1000 gear swaps (parts/labor/out the door). $1600ish seems to be fairly average overall. And as you found, a few places think that 2-3k for new gears is reasonable.
All you can do is shop around to see if you can find lower rates. But, be sure to get reviews/feedback before just going with the lowest rate. And you also have to get numbers on any extra work that has to be done. Like the truetrac uses hardened steel, and it is not unusual to have an extra charge for a machine shop to drill out the bolt holes. Or for a selectable, an extra charge for running the lines and mounting the switches.
All you can do is shop around to see if you can find lower rates. But, be sure to get reviews/feedback before just going with the lowest rate. And you also have to get numbers on any extra work that has to be done. Like the truetrac uses hardened steel, and it is not unusual to have an extra charge for a machine shop to drill out the bolt holes. Or for a selectable, an extra charge for running the lines and mounting the switches.

I'm still looking around for a shop to do it, but there's no lines to run with a LSD and Detroit, which is most likely the route I am going to go. This project most likely won't happen within the next 6 months, but I would at least like to get the ball rolling.
It's hard to compare hourly labor rates that vary with location, but it doesn't look bad to me presuming it is top quality work. Granted I've only rebuilt a few axles and am meticulously slow -- 8 hours seems too short for two complete re-gear jobs, pressing on new bearings, new oil seals, setting pinion depth, gear mesh, plus all the related stuff.
Regarding the DL (Detroit Locker), I put DL's front and rear in a short bed Ford many years ago and never was happy with the on-road handling of the rear DL. The dog-clutches engage and clunk. On hard pavement only one wheel on an axle actually gets the torque, so it pushes to one side or the other, and when it clunks the torque may shift to the opposite wheel. Driving on icy roads was particularly nerve racking. Off road they worked great, 36" tires and 5.13 gears, which was pretty big 30 years ago. Having written all that, I remember someone on a forum wrote that newer DL's don't have as much of this issue as they did 30 years ago. Perhaps someone with less ancient experience can comment.
Regarding the DL (Detroit Locker), I put DL's front and rear in a short bed Ford many years ago and never was happy with the on-road handling of the rear DL. The dog-clutches engage and clunk. On hard pavement only one wheel on an axle actually gets the torque, so it pushes to one side or the other, and when it clunks the torque may shift to the opposite wheel. Driving on icy roads was particularly nerve racking. Off road they worked great, 36" tires and 5.13 gears, which was pretty big 30 years ago. Having written all that, I remember someone on a forum wrote that newer DL's don't have as much of this issue as they did 30 years ago. Perhaps someone with less ancient experience can comment.
Hi all,
I'm looking at regearing my JKX to 4.56 from 3.21 and putting a trutrac LSD up front and most likely a Detroit locker in the rear (unless somebody can give me a reason worth $xxx).
So I called up Independent 4x in Ashland, Va and told them what I wanted and they called me back with a quote of $3,000 before tax. $3800 with an ARB rear air locker. So after the minor heart attack, I ran some numbers...
Detroit Trutrac by Eaton Performance Limited Slip Differential: $434
Detroit Rear Locker: $700
Gears: $250
Labor: 8 hours maybe? = $800
Totaling up to $2184 so where is the other $816 coming from? They said they would be needing to change my diff oil, which I know isn't a $816 job.
Is 3 grand about right for this? Does anybody know another shop in Va that might be a little lower? On my budget, I was aiming to pay $2,000 cash by the time it was all said and done. (Hoping 2 grand right in front of them persuades them enough, maybe?)
I'm looking at regearing my JKX to 4.56 from 3.21 and putting a trutrac LSD up front and most likely a Detroit locker in the rear (unless somebody can give me a reason worth $xxx).
So I called up Independent 4x in Ashland, Va and told them what I wanted and they called me back with a quote of $3,000 before tax. $3800 with an ARB rear air locker. So after the minor heart attack, I ran some numbers...
Detroit Trutrac by Eaton Performance Limited Slip Differential: $434
Detroit Rear Locker: $700
Gears: $250
Labor: 8 hours maybe? = $800
Totaling up to $2184 so where is the other $816 coming from? They said they would be needing to change my diff oil, which I know isn't a $816 job.
Is 3 grand about right for this? Does anybody know another shop in Va that might be a little lower? On my budget, I was aiming to pay $2,000 cash by the time it was all said and done. (Hoping 2 grand right in front of them persuades them enough, maybe?)
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It's hard to compare hourly labor rates that vary with location, but it doesn't look bad to me presuming it is top quality work. Granted I've only rebuilt a few axles and am meticulously slow -- 8 hours seems too short for two complete re-gear jobs, pressing on new bearings, new oil seals, setting pinion depth, gear mesh, plus all the related stuff. Regarding the DL (Detroit Locker), I put DL's front and rear in a short bed Ford many years ago and never was happy with the on-road handling of the rear DL. The dog-clutches engage and clunk. On hard pavement only one wheel on an axle actually gets the torque, so it pushes to one side or the other, and when it clunks the torque may shift to the opposite wheel. Driving on icy roads was particularly nerve racking. Off road they worked great, 36" tires and 5.13 gears, which was pretty big 30 years ago. Having written all that, I remember someone on a forum wrote that newer DL's don't have as much of this issue as they did 30 years ago. Perhaps someone with less ancient experience can comment. 

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