Your figures seem a bit low for the gears, I would say closer to $500.00 if not a bit more for gears and install kits. Plus you figure diff oil adds another 50-60 bucks.
One way to save is buy all your own parts and then just pay install fee. Most shops are making profit off the parts too.

 

I thought about this too, but I know when I worked at a bike shop, we wouldn't install parts that weren't bought in our shop. Are off road shops not like that?

I have decided to scratch the LSD up front to leave it open for now and put the money into a selectable locker in the rear.

 

Good choice, especially if you live where you will see ice on the roads.

 

I've never once seen anyone complain about a LSD up front on ice or snow. Lockers yes. Actually most ppl agree LSD help in snow or ice.

 

It's true lsd up front is awesome in snow and ice.

 

I had truetracs front and rear on my ZJ. On snow and ice it would "crab walk" if I punched it. The JK's manners should be significantly better than the ZJs since it has traction control/ESP; however, it could still crab walk with under heavy acceleration. Smooth throttle input was quite nice though.

Sent from some string and a few tin cans.

 

Every time I turn around, I see, "LSD sucks in snow and ice" and then the next post: "LSD is amazing in snow and ice" so you know what?

I'm leaving it open. I drove a rwd mustang through 4" of snow (snowpocalypse) with it open and did fine because I knew how to drive. It broke loose constantly but I was easy on the throttle and controlled my skids. I'm sure open 4wd will be fine, if I slide into a ditch, I'll winch out. If I stuck, I'll lock the rear and winch if I need too. Maybe an LSD is better, maybe not. But if the combination of a rear selectable locker and a winch can't get you out, I doubt a front LSD would be the difference. Maybe when money isn't as scare as it is now, I'll put an LSD up next winter and tell you what I noticed.

Thanks to everyone who replied, I value the opinions posted; however, they're were too many that varied to listen any. So I made my own.

 

Probably because everyone tends to lump all limited slips together in the same category, without realizing that 'clutch-based' limiteds act differently than 'gear based' limiteds. Clutches need traction to differentiate, and slick conditions tend to prevent that differentiation, which can cause understeer (like a locked front end would do). This might be why the factory limited is not offered up front?

But regardless of how any given traction device acts on slick roads, not a one of them can overcome the laws of physics. If you are going to fast for conditions, you are going too fast. If you need studs or chains, you need studs or chains. And if you 'punch it' while driving on ice, why would you expect it to handle like you were driving normally...

 

Exactly what I was thinking but worded with much more cohesion in it. I don't drive fast, I drive like there's snow and ice on the ground. Some good points in this for future people wondering the same things. Thanks

 

Exactly