To compare a typical Domestic 4340 alloy shaft with aN RCV you'd need to use CTM u-joints. I love CTMs and they work well on the street with the proper maintenance but most won't do it. RCVs are easier to maintain and smoother.

I'm not quite sure about the benefits of the Reid knuckles. I know they're stronger but I'm not sure it matters. Your experience may vary.

A Truetrac will fit in a conventional version (also fits Detroit, ARB and others) of our PR44 (as opposed to a Rubi version)

 

So a Truetrac will not fit in the pr44 unlimited?

 

Yes, it will fit but it depends on which version you buy. We sell a version for the Rubi guys to install their internals and a conventional unit (usually used by Dana 30 guys) that accepts Truetrac, Detroit ARB etc.

 

Ohhh ok.. Thank you for clarifying.. I am planing on buying from Northbridge.

 

For someone doing this swap themselves:

Would it be advised to purchase a new front Drive shaft at the same time and replace the yoke on the transfer case?

 

Since you would have the yoke off to change the ring and pinion, and since you would have the driveshaft disconnected, yes, might as well if you have the money to do it.

However, it wouldn't take long to replace the yokes and DS later if you needed to. When I did my swap, I knicked the pinion seal and it was leaking. It took me about 20-30 minutes to pull the driveshaft, remove the yoke, remove the seal, and put it all back together again with a new pinion seal. Replacing the yoke on the transfer case would take another 5 minutes or so.

 

So the factory D30 pinion Yoke would fit the PR44?

 

I went from a d30, to a rubicon d44 housing, to a pr44. Used the same driveshaft and yoke during each step up.

 

I wish there was a way to get a loan for these PR!!!!!

 

so I'm not the only one