you don't have to cut holes in the floor to mount 12" travel shocks.

 

My situation would not easily fit a12" travel Rancho shock (some of the longest collapsed length on the market) because I have 2.5 lift only, rear lower mounts are raised 3". I could have created a different upper mount, but I would have the shocks at an angle that I wasn't sure the valving would still be acceptable. The more the shock is angled the softer the valving becomes.

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Extended bump stops are for three things, to protect the shock from bottoming out, protect the spring from over compression, and protect against tire rub. A ~16.5" collapsed shock will yield approx 10.5-11" of travel. By raising the lower mount with the EVO rockstars this you need 2" of added bumpstop to keep the shocks from bottoming out. The added down travel will unseat most coils that aren't retained (exceptions being EVO, Synergy, and MC as they have long free lengths).

In this instance, the shock protection trumps all other reasoning for bump stop height. Adding a longer travel shock means longer collapsed length and only makes this worse....

 

I believe you should set tire size and bumpstops first, then decide on lift height/spring characteristics next, and then finally find the shock that fits or modify mounts to make the desired shock fit. I agree that a bumpstop protects the shock from bottoming out, but that is the wrong way to go about it.

4" bumpstops for 35" tires is cheap but ridiculous. Buying a new shocks can be expensive or at least a waist of money. Why not make his current shocks work? He could use less bumpstops and use more of his existing travel and also get rid of the ugly muffler.

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I see what you're driving at... I mainly said this because it was a more cost effective solution (although I admit a little ghetto) and I am not a fan of relocating the sway bar. Even with the synergy relocation brackets he will need 2" of bump stop. Provided there are no tire fitment issues and the springs don't unseat, this would allow for more travel.

 

I agree that the extended bumpstops are the easiest and most economical solution. I need to remember that there are many ways to skin a cat. My priorities may differ than the OP priorities.

Just curious, why don't you like to relocate the sway bar? I know it requires work, but is there an inherent problem? I still have better ground clearance than someone with a traditional exhaust, it also makes it easier to stuff a tailpipe up high. Although my ugly tailpipe fit between the body and sway bar in its original location, I now have more room.

I eventually plan on expanding the rear cubby to maximize my storage space without going below the sway bar.

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I guess my priorities are to get the rock stars to work the correct way with the right parts. I will be getting 35s soon and will need proper bump stops anyways to keep them out of my fenders and protect my shocks and springs. Right now I am not interested in moving the upper mount but thanks for that info. The reason I got the rock stars was to move the shock mount up since I have hit them several times. Clear as mud? LOL

2011 JKUR, manual trans and some other stuff.....

 

I already come very close to dropping the links too low to ensure the ends will not flip. Moving the bar back reduces this angle even more. Sure I could get longer links but then I am worried about other interference at the brake lines and tire when stuffed.

 

What I did, when I installed my 2.5 RK, I already had RockStars for clearance. I have the long travel Fox shocks up front( 4-6" lift) and the shorter shocks in the rear(1-3" lift). When compressed, I'm just above the shock bottoming out, and it gets me pretty good flex. I've thought about the Synergy kit to raise the top mount, but I'm not planning on changing my exhaust at the moment.

 

I have the 1.5-3.5" IPF Fox shocks. Could you post a pic of the rear compressed and at level height if possible?