extended breathers
Originally Posted by ohlhockeyguy
Why not just disconnect the old ones and leave them in place? Start fresh with new.
Run a new complete line is my advice...that is what I did after a fight trying to locate the end of the breather tube. I ran the new tube up in the same area as the stock tube but dropped a string from the top and placed a clamp on the end of the new line and pulled the new tube up into the engine bay with the string. the only thing is you need to purchase a new breather tube cap.
The end of the transfer case and tranny come up just behind the engine along the firewall in the middle of the jeep. Reach down there and they will come up to a point easier to mess with. In all honesty, the factory has set them up pretty damn high, unless you occasionally run water over the hood.
The end of the transfer case and tranny come up just behind the engine along the firewall in the middle of the jeep. Reach down there and they will come up to a point easier to mess with. In all honesty, the factory has set them up pretty damn high, unless you occasionally run water over the hood.
You could....but why???? Just run them to your stock airbox. With the new holes drilled into the stock box for the lines just seal them up with silicone as the stock airbox is sealed or at least should be sealed if you installed a snorkel as per the instructions.
I finally got off work and got to working on my jeep. I went through the top of the engine and spotted the tcase breather cap right away. I pulled it off and slipped the tube down to the bottom. Once I had all the breathers down, hooking up everythig was a breeze. I connected the rear axle breather to the main tube and ran it on top of the gas tank, ziptie-ing it along the way. I ran the tcase and tranny breathers to the main hose running along the passenger side. I brought the main hose up behind the radiator, just below the fan and joined in the front axle with a "T". Instead of splicing it into the oil breather, I went ahead and drilled a hole into the air box and hit it with black silicone when done. I'm pretty satisfied with the way it looks and the way if was put together and it only cost me $25 in parts
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clarita, CA
The breathers are designed to allow hot expansive oil vapors to move out of the above mentioned housings; and prevent a positive pressure from building up and causing the oil seals to leak. On the flip side; when the housings and oil cool down, the breathers will allow atmosphere to enter the housings to equalize the air pressure inside; and allow condensed oil vapor to drain back into the housing.
If you plumb your vent lines into the crankcase breather tube (a negative pressure or vacuum source) you will always have a negative pressure within the housings when the engine is running. Sounds like it could be a good thing; to draw off those vapors. The continuous vacuum from the engine will pull oil vapor out of your plumbing.
However; if you plumb the various lines into a larger manifold tube you may create a scenario in which any curved or "S"-shaped tube may create low spots in the plumbing. Cooled, condensed oil vapor will collect in the bottoms of the curves. And, the small vacuum created by the cooling housings cannot pull the oil back. Everything in your vent system must continually run uphill towards the highest point (engine breather) so that the oil can drain back into the housings.
Basically you'll be checking and adding oil to your housings continually. AND... since you have connected all the housings together via your plumbing; you may also be exchanging oils amongst the various components. I'm sure this is the reason the factory individually vents the different components. KISS (delete the second "S"), no need to join all the vents together; and don't connect vents to any negative pressure source. Just my 2 cents.
If you plumb your vent lines into the crankcase breather tube (a negative pressure or vacuum source) you will always have a negative pressure within the housings when the engine is running. Sounds like it could be a good thing; to draw off those vapors. The continuous vacuum from the engine will pull oil vapor out of your plumbing.
However; if you plumb the various lines into a larger manifold tube you may create a scenario in which any curved or "S"-shaped tube may create low spots in the plumbing. Cooled, condensed oil vapor will collect in the bottoms of the curves. And, the small vacuum created by the cooling housings cannot pull the oil back. Everything in your vent system must continually run uphill towards the highest point (engine breather) so that the oil can drain back into the housings.
Basically you'll be checking and adding oil to your housings continually. AND... since you have connected all the housings together via your plumbing; you may also be exchanging oils amongst the various components. I'm sure this is the reason the factory individually vents the different components. KISS (delete the second "S"), no need to join all the vents together; and don't connect vents to any negative pressure source. Just my 2 cents.


