So I went by the shop that installed my lift, they said they could not return the caster back to the recommended 4.2-4.5 degrees that RK recommended without lower control arms. Anyone else know what their current castor is at? The alignment sheet I received with my install states 2.5 degrees castor.

 

Generally, you need at least the factory 4.* caster. I've had mine set at 5.5 (3.5" RK kit) with no problems but with aftermarket DSs. You "may" be able to cheat the feel by creating more toe-in but ultimately, the only way to get your caster back is with LCAs or cam bolts (I do not recommend).

If you're okay with how it drives/steers, just rotate the track bar and be done with it.

 

As you lift the suspension higher, the pinion tilts further up. As the pinion raises, the caster goes down. It's automatic, and gets progressively worse the higher you go. Every single person who has added a lift has run into this, whether or not they chose to correct it.

If you choose to raise the caster, do some reading to see which fix is right for you. The options are cam bolts, drop brackets, longer/shorter fixed control arms, or adjustable control arms. But as fredrok noted, if you are ok with the steering, leave it alone and mess with the trackbar.

 

Good to know...it drives perfectly fine to me, just don't want track bar to rub the diff. I'll try rotating it out away from the diff and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the input...looks like I will try rotating the track bar out and see where that takes me.

 

I have the same lift and my axle is centered perfectly to 1/16" of an inch. I also had enough contact to knock the paint off my stock diff cover. I tilted the bar forward about 15* and now it has not contact. I run pretty hard off road and all is good.

 

At 2.5" you probably don't need to raise the track bar at the axle & flip the drag link. (You have to do both!) I'm more incluned to think your front control arms are adjusted too long. A good rule of thumb for the front lowers on a lifted rig is 23 1/8".

 

That was my first thought but when I googled his kit it doesn't have control arms.

 

How does it handle at speed ? The stock mod is a very basic kit... I usually recommend the flex kit which includes front lowers (for caster) Geometry brackets are another option and cheaper. You could also do front uppers but i would not go with RK's (too long), you want a upper that will adjust shorter than stock. Synergy and MC arms will.

 

I'm thinking this may be my best route at this point.