Hey guys new here. I have done a bit of searching but I don’t see if anyone has tried this setup yet. I have a 2016 Jeep JKU Sahara. I am building it to be a pavement princess so it won’t flex I just want the best on road ride. I bought the Teraflex 3” lift with the 4 Sport Arms and the front Adjustable Trackbar because I got a great deal on it for covid and I love the look of the 3” over the 2.5”. I’m starting to think I made a mistake with the Sport arms. After doing a bit of research it seems that the geometry correction brackets would be a better fit because they correct the geometry and the caster instead of just the caster with the sport arms. I am looking for the best on road ride/closest to stock with this lift. The kit comes with the front lowers and rear uppers. Would I be OK to run the sport arms only being 3/16 longer than stock with the geometry correction brackets? Maybe in the 2” setting instead of 3” to compensate for the slightly longer arm? Or would I just be better off scrapping the front lower sport arms and using the stock arms with the geometry correction brackets? I've heard from a few people that the sport arms ride harsh in the stock locations. I’m assuming because of the new angles the lift created. That is certainly the last thing I am looking for.

Thanks for any help!!

 

You are correct in your thinking that for your use the geo brackets would have been a better idea and produced a better ride. Those sport arms are fixed length correct, which is why you're concerned about now using them with brackets? As long as the brackets you purchase have multiple mounting options, and one of those options provides you with an acceptable caster with the sport arms, there's no issue doing that. You still have your factory arms right? Worst case would be you put those back on with the brackets and sell the TF arms.

 

Just run the geo brackets with stock arms. At 3” of lift if you run them both you will likely end up with too much caster. Remember tire pressure and tire choice affects ride as well.

 

I agree, if you are going to run the brackets put your stock arms back on. The more you rotate the axle for caster the more angle you put on the front drive shaft and increase the chance of introducing vibrations into the front drive shaft. At 3" you need to look at an exhaust cross pipe spacer or a new cross pipe as the drive shaft will hit the exhaust when the suspension is compressed and can tear the boot on the driveshaft which protects the splines and keeps the grease in the shaft. Some people will also replace the front drive shaft with an aftermarket shaft that tend to be smaller in diameter and give you more clearance in that area. If you are looking for best ride look into C rated tires and avoid going more the 17" on the wheels. Install a raised rear track bar bracket as well to center the rear axle and improve ride. You did not mention tire size, if you have not checked yet confirm your gearing. IF you have 3.21 gears and throw 35's on it you are likely not going to like it.

Good Luck with the build.

 

also depending on what geo brackets you get the holes will be different. Ie AEV does not recommend geo brackets with under 2.5" lift and actually gives you measurements from spring perch to frame to determine which holes to use. Rancho says using the the top hole ie the one for a 2" lift will give a 3" lift 4.5* caster. If you combine the longer control arms with the geo brackets even in the top hole you are going to have in excess of 6.5* caster most likely. It makes no sense that you want to improve your ride but you are willing to cause other issues like Dirtman says vibration at drive shaft which can cause damage to Transfer case etc. Also your steering will be slow with too much caster. Caster is one of those things that too little is bad but so is too much.

 

dang I wasn’t really thinking of it like that with the over caster thing. What does too much caster cause? I do have the longer rear upper sport arms so I was hoping those would help with adjusting that pinion angle on the lift addressing the driveshaft issues. Is that correct?

talking completely hypothetically here, I will have a very light rig with a spare delete and aluminum bumpers. I’m figuring I’ll actually gain closer to 4” from the teraflex 3” springs. If that was the case, at 4” actual lift running the sport arms and the rancho geometry brackets in the 2” setting per the rancho directions I would be at 4.5 or oe caster. If I got 3” of actual lift than I’d be at 5.5 caster which they say is still good in their directions. Does this look right?

 

sounds like you have the front and rear driveshaft mixed up. TF upper front sport arms are the same length as stock.

sounds like you are determined to run both. Not what I would do and there is a reason that AEV specifically says not to but it is your rig and your money.

from AEVAEV Front Control Arm Drop Brackets are included in all AEV 3.5″/4.5″ DualSport suspensions, but can also be added to AEV’s 2.5″ DualSport suspension, as well as other manufacturer’s suspensions that retain the OE control arms. These are NOT to be used with adjustable control arms.

 

no I don’t have the front uppers. I have the front lowers and the rear uppers. I thought the longer rear uppers would fix the pinion and driveshaft angles in the rear? I have exhaust spacers as well. I may be wrong completely, I’m just here to learn!

I am slightly determined to get the sport arms to work with the brackets in the front. I got a killer deal on the kit with the arms included so I couldn’t pass it up. After doing research I see that the brackets are the go to option instead of the arms. It’s no biggie, if they won’t work out together I can just throw on the stockers with the brackets. I just figured since I already have the arms I might as well ask if anyone’s tried this yet

 

The drive shaft angles in the rear on the 4dr are very forgiving with CV joints on both ends. Most people don't even bother with rear arms till they are at the point of needing to push the rear axle back out....primarily to accommodate larger tires. You're not really gaining anything by using both the sport arms AND the brackets. I was merely saying earlier that it was possible as long as it left you with an acceptable caster. I know you're trying to make them work cuz you got such a good deal, but making things work isn't always the best idea. I think you'd probably be better off just using factory arms with the brackets and selling the sport arms to recoup some funds. There's no damage to pride in doing so.

Also, "acceptable" caster isn't an exact target, but most of us run in the 4-5* range. Get your caster too high and you're drive shaft (and subsequently the TC) isn't going to like you. That front shaft is going to have a hard enough time at 3+ inches as it is.

 

What would be the issue with running the rear upper sport arms that I already have? I understand the front lower sport arms may not work with the brackets but how would that make a difference on the rear uppers?