I'm just suggesting that you don't really need the rear upper arms. There's no harm installing them, but it's not worth the effort IMO.

 

the rears will be fine but like was said not really needed but the rear control arms have no impact of the front..

 

Ok, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn稚 mess something up by doing that 😂 thank you for all your help man and everyone else who replied, I appreciate it a lot. I値l be sending this to my local 4x4 shop to install so I may just buy the brackets and send them with the kit and see if they can get them to work out. If the caster is just going to be too high no matter what then I値l have them ditch the front sport arms and just re use the stocks with the brackets while everything is apart. I知 already planning to pay for an extra hr or two of labor so they can try the sport arms with brackets. I don稚 mind spending a little extra to experiment!

 

While I have some of you guys here, I have a couple other q痴! With this lift do you think I should pick up some RK coil correction wedges? I致e seen a lot of people have them but I haven稚 heard if they are necessary or not.

also, I have a Sahara with crappy stock gearing 3:21. I plan to run 35s, my wheel and tire setup weighs out to 120lbs a corner. My drive to work is a 10 min 99% highway ride (live off the exit) there and back. I occasionally run the backroads to my in-laws for a 30-40 min slightly hilly ride. Do you guys think this will be unbearable for me? I don稚 want to drop another 2k on a regear right away after 6k on a lift and wheel& tire but if I have to I will. Just let me know your thoughts. I will get a flash cal f5 and an exhaust with a CAI to help a tiny bit.

 

No, those are a gimmick. Your rear coil springs will bow. The proper way to correct this is to cut off the coil perches on your rear axle, rotate them up, and weld them back on. If you're not going to off-road, then don't bother.

Too subjective. Isn't Alabama pretty flat? And you won't be off-roading? No, you don't need the gears right now.

Don't do a CAI. Neither will actually give you any noticeable gain. Exhaust is just going to make it sound like a Honda Civic with a muffler.

 

If you are expecting 4" of lift be prepared to spend a little more money on stuff to make it drive good. If you come out at 4" you will need that exhaust work, longer sway bar links, front and rear adjustable track bars, a drag link flip would be highly recommended, shocks, and you should start building a drive shaft fund. 3.21 with 35's is going to poor in performance and fuel economy (12-15) mpg. You will notice it most on overpasses. If it bothers you save for gears, if not run with it. CAI's and exhausts are a waste of money.

 

Thats just what I知 figuring based on the lift and my rig. I値l be running a spare delete and no winch or roof racks or anything so I知 figuring with the teraflex 3 inch lift I値l probably end up netting closer to 4 inches because I'm so light. Does that sound right? I知 just trying to plan ahead.

My kit came with the exhaust spacers to fix that driveshaft clearance issue, front and rear longer sway bar links, a front adjustable trackbar and a axle mounted bracket for the rear. Debating on the drag link flip because a lot of people say I won稚 need it. Do you think I should grab it or wait and see? I got the falcon 3.1 reservoir shocks with my kit as well. I think I知 just gonna try to run the 3.21s with the setup for a couple months. If it痴 just unbearable I値l cough up the ched for some 4.56痴 and new carriers.
I値l probably skip the CAI, maybe an exhaust for looks because I like the axle back magnaflow but that値l be it.

 

Teraflex coils are not know for their weight handling, actually the opposite. You may fine you will be closer to 3" which will be better. Wait and see with the drag link flip. If you are over that 3" and close to 4" of actual lift then it will make a pretty big difference in the steering and tracking down the road. Its like the relocation brackets on the control arms. Things that move in an arc are best when they are as parallel to the ground as you can get them. Thats why I recommend a raised rear track bar that will match your actual lift height. The flatter that link the straighter your jeep will track down the road.