No prob. If you want a jump start you can put your intercooler on and get the associated piping to the inside. That is if you got the intercooler.

 

that's a good idea.. i'm going to have to remove my damn winch first though so i can get the grill out (sucks).. i think i might have to start that after lunch

 

Hmmmm. I was able to remove my grill with bumper (with hoop) and winch still on. Just enough room. Looks like you have the same bumper.

 

yeah, but the damn wires are in the way.. i need to adjust them when i get this thing off.

 

hey yingyang,

i saw a picture of your install on another post and it looked like you didn't modify upper heater hose. i'm just trying to find out if you did, cuz it also looks like you didn't reroute the upper heater hose.

thanks man... i started the intercooler like you suggested.. done with that.

 

I didnt modify it, didnt really need to. It does touch the supercharger bracket but shouldnt hurt anything. I didnt drain any water out of my radiator either.

Yea, the intercooler is the easy part.
I also mounted the supercharger/bracket the next day. You can suck air thru the blower and intercooler without spinning it (leaving the stock belt). Only problem with that is trying to fish the new belt between the top pully and the bracket and removing the stock belt when the blower is installed. Its a real B to do.

Few other tips that I found handy during my install.

* Mount the filter housing to the blower before you install. Watch out for the temp sensor, pass side top of the radiator. You can easily hit it when you put the blower on. Another pair of hands (which I didnt have) is very handy during this process. Its not that its heavy just awkward.

* Dont go King Kong on all the hose clamps. Just slight pressure is all you need.

* After manifold is removed MASK THE INTAKE HOLES!! You dont want to drop anything in there.

* Dont disconnect the fuel line, someone else broke theirs. You can easily rotate the manifold over to access the fuel rail.

* The manifold bolts are pretty easy to remove except the one on the pass side rear. I broke one putting the manifold back on. It doesnt take much force so just an FYI.

* When you under your hood, playing spyder monkey (you will know what I mean afterwards) dont put any tools, bolts, etc right by the windsheild wiper motor. There is a gaping hole there and it will eat it. Dont ask me how I know.

If I think of anything else I will post up. Its really a straight forward install, instructions are pretty clear. Just take your time and you will be golden. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

 

this is great info.. thanks..

i am making a list of odds and ends that i need to make the install golden.. let me know if i need anything else

spark plug tool
anti-seize for plugs
gap tool
locktite

anything i'm missing??

thanks..

 

NP, glad I could help. Its just good Jeep karma. I had a couple other people help me 2.

Black zip ties come in real handy, not only to tidy up hoses but also to keep the dang things out of your way during the install.

I bought a new 3/8" craftsman ratchet on the advice from another installer. He said it would become my new favorite, he was right. Also make sure you have ratchet extensions and a universal joint. There are some pretty weird angles you will be working in. Here is a link to the ratchet.. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G58

Just remembered one more thing. Number your injector wires and fuel rail, black sharpie works great. Its pretty clear where they go back, I just didnt want my A.D.D. to kick in when I was plugging them back in to the new ones.

 

i'll have to check my toolbox... might already have one, if not, i will get one..

thanks.

 

Add:

• When tighteing the spark plugs watch the angel of the socket, some have cracked their plugs and their not easy to find local.
• Before re-installing the spark plug wires makes sure the wires didn't come appart internally when you pulled them off. This is a great place for a misfire to randomly appear.
• When re-installing the EGR tube, make sure the integrity of the EGR gasket on the cylinder head is sound. This is a great place for a vacuum leak to hide.
• Make sure you don't press any of the injector grommets out - doing this right the first time saves you the hassel of the second time. We spent a lot of time detailing any obsticles refrenced above.

Yes - sorry -your kit is part of the 2011 stock so - surprise you got a newer kit . No instructions yet, but Ying Yangs pics tell the whole story...

Also you should have gotten your tune - correct (there were 12 of you waiting for our calibrater to get back) crazy winter blast got him stuck out of town!TECH