Help With Lift
05-31-2016, 11:26 AM
#13
JK Newbie
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
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Get a good overview of what you have and where you want the build to go before you start throwing money at it.
For the links, there are many that are adjustable. Easier just to buy a set of those and lengthen them until the swaybar is level than for us to tell you our guesses. Or look at a set of disconnects, if you prefer.
For the links, there are many that are adjustable. Easier just to buy a set of those and lengthen them until the swaybar is level than for us to tell you our guesses. Or look at a set of disconnects, if you prefer.
05-31-2016, 12:25 PM
#14
JK Freak
Honestly,
Call Northridge 4x4 and get a set of adjustable front sway bar end links for a 3-4" lift. There are a bunch of brands, most are similar. Expect around $130-$150 for that.
The rear may be close enough. Flex the rear and see if the bar and links look like the bar end and link can create close to a straight line, if so, your in grave danger of flipping it and twisting it up. Get longer (12" is what you say would about level the bar) links if your even remotely close to making a straight line. (Your front is bad, real bad. That is not optional)
The rear track bar bracket is a bolt on, but it looks way too short (in height, lifting the track bar end). You would prefer to get a bolt on bracket to replace that, one that has a some optional holes so you can level the bar like it was stock. As it sets now, it is not level, your rear axle is shifted slightly to the passenger side, and the ride/handling suffers a bit due to that "roll center" being off.
The front appears to be a drop pitman arm and frame side track bar drop bracket. What sucks with that is that if you off-road it, the factory supplied steering gear box and sector shaft are well documented failure points, and especially so with the added stress (leverage) of a dropped pitman arm. So the fix here would be to get a stock pitman back on there, remove that bolt on frame-side track bar drop bracket, and instead run the track bar in the stock angle until you can afford to do a drag link flip and raised track bar bracket. There is a $300 option from Northridge that uses a factory right-drive drag link and bolt on track bar raise bracket.
Your not going to burst into flames and parish if you work on correcting these things over pay checks rather than dumping $600-$700 into it today. If you can afford to fix it now, great! If not, poke at it as you can. But call Eric at NorthRidge 4x4 and get your game plan so you know how you need proceed with your finances. It will end up riding better and being safer to use off-road after you address these items.
Call Northridge 4x4 and get a set of adjustable front sway bar end links for a 3-4" lift. There are a bunch of brands, most are similar. Expect around $130-$150 for that.
The rear may be close enough. Flex the rear and see if the bar and links look like the bar end and link can create close to a straight line, if so, your in grave danger of flipping it and twisting it up. Get longer (12" is what you say would about level the bar) links if your even remotely close to making a straight line. (Your front is bad, real bad. That is not optional)
The rear track bar bracket is a bolt on, but it looks way too short (in height, lifting the track bar end). You would prefer to get a bolt on bracket to replace that, one that has a some optional holes so you can level the bar like it was stock. As it sets now, it is not level, your rear axle is shifted slightly to the passenger side, and the ride/handling suffers a bit due to that "roll center" being off.
The front appears to be a drop pitman arm and frame side track bar drop bracket. What sucks with that is that if you off-road it, the factory supplied steering gear box and sector shaft are well documented failure points, and especially so with the added stress (leverage) of a dropped pitman arm. So the fix here would be to get a stock pitman back on there, remove that bolt on frame-side track bar drop bracket, and instead run the track bar in the stock angle until you can afford to do a drag link flip and raised track bar bracket. There is a $300 option from Northridge that uses a factory right-drive drag link and bolt on track bar raise bracket.
Your not going to burst into flames and parish if you work on correcting these things over pay checks rather than dumping $600-$700 into it today. If you can afford to fix it now, great! If not, poke at it as you can. But call Eric at NorthRidge 4x4 and get your game plan so you know how you need proceed with your finances. It will end up riding better and being safer to use off-road after you address these items.