Help me choose some lockers!
JK Newbie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
Selectable is usually the way to go if you can afford it, but if you can't, I'm a fan of the lunchbox style lockers (Aussie, Lockright, Spartan). I like doing one in the front first, that way on the road in 2wd you never notice it, but when you are in 4wd and need it, it works. I have a lockright in the rear of mine and you can hear an audible ratcheting noise when going around a tight corner, but in a straight line or when you gas it, the tires lock up and go. Having driven Uwharrie first without a locker, and then with, it made a world of a difference.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Well, there is no competing with a true locker in very extreme situations. For those of us, like you, who mostly hit the trails an LSD is super beneficial, and in 4wd the front LSD comes in real handy for the extra traction needed to get out of some real sticky situations. Note that the factory LSD isn't that great and in the future, sooner than later, will need to be rebuilt or replaced. The nice thing about the Truetracs is that they never need any maintenance and are essentially bullet-proof. A very good investment if this is your route. As far as daily driving in snow, rain, sometimes ice, the truetrac's are effective in helping your rig send power to the wheel with traction which then helps you take-off or go through some really nasty weather. The crazy thing is that the Truetrac's are quiet and you never really know it's working until you look back and say, wow, how the hell did my Jeep go through that? My rig's bad ass!!! Seriously, besides regearing this is the best money I spent.
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 4
From: Huntington Beach, CA
The Truetrac is a gear driven LSD compared to the stock clutch driven LSD. It is much more aggressive than the stock LSD and is perfect for the light to moderate wheeler that does't lift tires often.
Another thing to consider here is- Do you want to spend any money modding your 30? For many users it is better to avoid doing ANYTHING to the 30 because that money can be a very poor investment in many cases. Only you know how you wheel and what you ultimately plan for your Jeep. If you don't have long term plans, this is the right time to build that plan. Are you getting more aggressive? Do you plan for bigger tires? Are you looking for more challenging trails? If you answer yes to any of these questions, you might want to save up for a better axle.
I understand that this sounds very self serving but I've been there too. I spent a ton of cash on my own D30 only to dump it after spending a lot of cash and effort building it up. Do it once, do it right.
Another thing to consider here is- Do you want to spend any money modding your 30? For many users it is better to avoid doing ANYTHING to the 30 because that money can be a very poor investment in many cases. Only you know how you wheel and what you ultimately plan for your Jeep. If you don't have long term plans, this is the right time to build that plan. Are you getting more aggressive? Do you plan for bigger tires? Are you looking for more challenging trails? If you answer yes to any of these questions, you might want to save up for a better axle.
I understand that this sounds very self serving but I've been there too. I spent a ton of cash on my own D30 only to dump it after spending a lot of cash and effort building it up. Do it once, do it right.
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: 46514
Yes, it's a LSD and in my opinion the best for a DD with some light off-road, trails, camping, overlanding type adventures.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
The Truetrac is a gear driven LSD compared to the stock clutch driven LSD. It is much more aggressive than the stock LSD and is perfect for the light to moderate wheeler that does't lift tires often.
Another thing to consider here is- Do you want to spend any money modding your 30? For many users it is better to avoid doing ANYTHING to the 30 because that money can be a very poor investment in many cases. Only you know how you wheel and what you ultimately plan for your Jeep. If you don't have long term plans, this is the right time to build that plan. Are you getting more aggressive? Do you plan for bigger tires? Are you looking for more challenging trails? If you answer yes to any of these questions, you might want to save up for a better axle.
I understand that this sounds very self serving but I've been there too. I spent a ton of cash on my own D30 only to dump it after spending a lot of cash and effort building it up. Do it once, do it right.
Another thing to consider here is- Do you want to spend any money modding your 30? For many users it is better to avoid doing ANYTHING to the 30 because that money can be a very poor investment in many cases. Only you know how you wheel and what you ultimately plan for your Jeep. If you don't have long term plans, this is the right time to build that plan. Are you getting more aggressive? Do you plan for bigger tires? Are you looking for more challenging trails? If you answer yes to any of these questions, you might want to save up for a better axle.
I understand that this sounds very self serving but I've been there too. I spent a ton of cash on my own D30 only to dump it after spending a lot of cash and effort building it up. Do it once, do it right.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 166
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ
Selectable is usually the way to go if you can afford it, but if you can't, I'm a fan of the lunchbox style lockers (Aussie, Lockright, Spartan). I like doing one in the front first, that way on the road in 2wd you never notice it, but when you are in 4wd and need it, it works. I have a lockright in the rear of mine and you can hear an audible ratcheting noise when going around a tight corner, but in a straight line or when you gas it, the tires lock up and go. Having driven Uwharrie first without a locker, and then with, it made a world of a difference.
Last edited by azyjjk; Nov 9, 2011 at 09:18 AM.
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: 46514
Well I don't see too many trips out to Moab, but my long term plans would be a decent armor set on the JKU, with 35s to use for wheeling, and I forsee it being my primary vehicle for many many years. That being said, regearing, adding lockers or a lsd, and re-enforcing (sleeves and gussets) would be a project I'd like to do all at once, and hopefully be the only project. From reading around, it seems like while a nice dyna44 would be bulletproof, I should be more than fine with the stock 30. Does that sound right?
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 4
From: Huntington Beach, CA
If you add a locker to your 30, this is where things can get bad. Your R&P will be the weak link. When you go to lockers you'll need new shafts too as your old shafts can fail pretty fast. Will you be adding the sleeves and gussets yourself or will you have a shop do it? All the lockers, shafts and gears are about equal in price comparing a 44 and a 30. Since you won't need sleeves or gussets on a PR, this is money you won't pay. If you assume that having sleeves and gussets installed in a shop is $750, for prox $1,400 more you can have a ProRock 44. THEN you install the same parts you would have used in your 30 (44 version, of course).
It's just something to think about. I frequently talk to people that wish they'd never spent a dime on their 30. If they had it to do over again they'd do it differently. Once you add much money to your 30 you'll be very reluctant to part with it.
'sales pitch--off
It's just something to think about. I frequently talk to people that wish they'd never spent a dime on their 30. If they had it to do over again they'd do it differently. Once you add much money to your 30 you'll be very reluctant to part with it.
'sales pitch--off
