Help me decide RockKrawler or Metalcloak
My rig is more of a super fish finding trail rig, a lot of weight (camping and fishing gear) I need a system that an take me to the lakes on the ducy Ersham, as well as handle well at high speed. I am currently running RE 3½ lift and shocks. When I upgrade next year, it will be just shocks and control arms, as I have been told That should all I need since my rig is not a designated ROCK Krawler..... Still think metalcloak is the way to go?
Nope didn't forget about it, just didn't mention it. But compare that to the metalcloak shock, which has 12-16" of shock travel depending on model. Metalcloak claims combined with their dual rate springs you can use all of that travel without unseating a spring, which should translate to at least 14"+ of wheel travel, all out of factory brackets. Since we're ignoring linkage type (long arm or short arm), I think it's safe to say from a travel standpoint only they're similar. I'm no metalcloak fanboy, but just looking at the advertised numbers that appears to be the case.
And from a general standpoint it's safe to say since the vast majority of Jeepers can not weld themselves, the process of welding in brackets is an evasive install, and IMO a more permanent alteration. Me personally I don't care I'll cut and weld all day, but it's something to think about when considereing differences.
Differences....
DTD: As I said before, combined coilover/bypass shock on all 4 corners, front standard outboard frame over axle, rear cantilever tucked up into frame. Lots of welding. Adjustable ride height, 14" travel (according to chris, which I believe), tunable compression/rebound rates from two independent sources, as well as position compression and rebound adjustment based on the bypass shock (translates into highly tunable ride, could cost a lot of money if you do not have the tools/knowhow to tune yourself). The coilover/bypass shock if tuned right will work great on road and highspeed, but there isn't any real benfit to having the bypass at low speed crawling IMO. Quite a few parts in the rear setup, but neatly packaged to provide a lot of travel without altering the body or frame.
MC: Dual piston/floating body bypass shock with dual rate spring. Lots of travel out of stock brackets, the most shock travel on the market when comparing compresse length (16" travel is something like 15" compressend length shock) to my knowledge. Tunable compression and rebound. Non tunable spring. Non adjustable ride height. Lots of moving parts in the shocks, still relatively new. Lot's of things to fail (though no proof that there are many failures if any yet). Should handle highspeed failry well. Will provide lots of travel for low speed crawling.
So it really becomes a question of what do you plan to do with your jeep, and what can you afford.

And from a general standpoint it's safe to say since the vast majority of Jeepers can not weld themselves, the process of welding in brackets is an evasive install, and IMO a more permanent alteration. Me personally I don't care I'll cut and weld all day, but it's something to think about when considereing differences.
Differences....
DTD: As I said before, combined coilover/bypass shock on all 4 corners, front standard outboard frame over axle, rear cantilever tucked up into frame. Lots of welding. Adjustable ride height, 14" travel (according to chris, which I believe), tunable compression/rebound rates from two independent sources, as well as position compression and rebound adjustment based on the bypass shock (translates into highly tunable ride, could cost a lot of money if you do not have the tools/knowhow to tune yourself). The coilover/bypass shock if tuned right will work great on road and highspeed, but there isn't any real benfit to having the bypass at low speed crawling IMO. Quite a few parts in the rear setup, but neatly packaged to provide a lot of travel without altering the body or frame.
MC: Dual piston/floating body bypass shock with dual rate spring. Lots of travel out of stock brackets, the most shock travel on the market when comparing compresse length (16" travel is something like 15" compressend length shock) to my knowledge. Tunable compression and rebound. Non tunable spring. Non adjustable ride height. Lots of moving parts in the shocks, still relatively new. Lot's of things to fail (though no proof that there are many failures if any yet). Should handle highspeed failry well. Will provide lots of travel for low speed crawling.
So it really becomes a question of what do you plan to do with your jeep, and what can you afford.

My rig is more of a super fish finding trail rig, a lot of weight (camping and fishing gear) I need a system that an take me to the lakes on the ducy Ersham, as well as handle well at high speed. I am currently running RE 3½ lift and shocks. When I upgrade next year, it will be just shocks and control arms, as I have been told That should all I need since my rig is not a designated ROCK Krawler..... Still think metalcloak is the way to go?
I run this set up with just front lower adjustable control arms and a flip kit
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He said pretty clearly "bolt on" kit, as opposed to their full blown weld on kit. They (EVO) offer both systems.
http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...od=EVO.Bolt.On
http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...=EVO.Bolt.On.R
Shots on my JK
Yep, bolt on coilovers.
http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...od=EVO.Bolt.On
http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...=EVO.Bolt.On.R
Shots on my JK
By the way, I like the kit.
Both front and rear kits include King coil-overs. If you plan on driving fast the air bumps are a good idea. The front air bumps require cutting, and are bolt on. The rears will need to be welded.


