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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Help! with pics :)

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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #11  
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good luck man! I can't wait to see it!!!
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #12  
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time for some new rubber.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by geebee
time for some new rubber.
I already have new rubber but they are in the basement until this problem is fixed. I did not want to add new parts to the problem and have to diagnose that mess.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 09:33 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JKRockStomper
I already have new rubber but they are in the basement until this problem is fixed. I did not want to add new parts to the problem and have to diagnose that mess.
Yaeh, good call. No need to add while trying to deduce.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 04:30 AM
  #15  
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Make sure you have a good calibrated torque wrench(not a craftsman) and torque the trak bars to 125ftlb. 125 is a pretty good tug.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 07:44 AM
  #16  
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From: Shadow of the Space Needle
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I have that rear track bar mount on mine and it works great. It is solid. That being said, can't hurt to go through a process of elimination. From your pick of the front, it looks like either the jam nut on the track bar is not tight or there is a big glob of antisieze on it. Don't forget to check those jam nuts and make sure they are tight. It's an often overlooked aspect that can cause a problem. Good luck.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #17  
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Ok, I removed the rear trackbar bracket and retorqued all the control arm and the trackbar bolts. The problem still persists.

The next action will be to take of the spacer and try that.

I have also provided pics below of the front axles.





Let me know if the spacing looks fine for the axels and the broken plastic piece is on the passenger side.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #18  
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From: St. Peters, MO
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Ok, the wheel spacers are off and the problem still exists. Once the spacers came off I had to reverse the rear swaybar links, so the pics are different now.


front passenger side



front driver side



rear driver side

front passenger side (rear view)

front driver side (rear view)


Thanks for the great advice. Keep it coming. By the way the ball joints are good and the front trackbar jam nut is just covered in anti-seeze.

Last edited by JKRockStomper; Mar 22, 2009 at 12:05 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #19  
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Problems like this are a really tough call because there has been so MUCH that has been changed all at once. You almost have an entirely different vehicle suspension wise.

You've changed something that was designed, tested, tweaked and in some cases designed again, tested, tweaked........you get the picture. And all that was done by people with engineering degrees and years of experience with lots of high tech design software.


Then, you took that and threw a shitload of parts at it. ALL at once. I know. It was a kit. But hear what I'm sayin here. Now, you have a diagnosis nightmare. You know what I'd do? And I'm serious, too. First off, get rid of that frikkin bracket. That's a great idea, and you don't need it. It's also the easiest to do on the list.....and there IS a list.


Now, if the bracket pitchin doesn't do the job.....and it MAY, I hope it does. Here is the list. Remove the trackbars and replace them with the stockers. Front and rear. Drive it. It won't hurt it that the axles will be off center. See if there's a change.


No change? Put the stock springs back on it. You CHANGED something and caused the problem. Unless removing that bracket fixes the problem, and it damn well could, you're stuck with process of elimination. Good luck.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #20  
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From: Shadow of the Space Needle
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He said he took the bracket off and it didn't change. But I agree, a process of elimination is the best way to go. It's a pain but effective.

Also, on your disconnects. Mine have a large washer that goes between the bushing and the cotter pin. Probably not related to the problem, but I think your bushings will thank you if you put that washer in there.
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