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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Help please.

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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 02:08 PM
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Not sure if I made a hello thread here or not there are so many Jeep forums. If I didn't, hello. I purchased a 2015 JK unlimited sport about 8 months ago and it's been a bit of a money pit. It had 90,000 miles on it when I got it and it ran great. For about 2 months. The thermostat housing was the 1st to go, it blew apart on the way home from work, easy fix. Next the oil cooler started leaking, I swapped it out for the all aluminum one and it's been good so far. While I was there I threw in a new set of spark plugs too. Brake pads started to squeak so I got new rotors and Power stop pads. Then I replaced all the fluids in the Jeep from the power steering to the rear diff. By that time the BFG mud terrain tires were getting REALLY bad, went with the BFG K02's in 285/70/17. Then I decided to install a Rough Country 2.5 inch lift kit. Springs and new shocks. At that point I opted for Power Stop coated stainless brake hoses for up to a 4" lift. And took it in to get the alignment checked. I was told it needed new tie rods, drag link, ball joints and the gear box might be able to be adjusted if not a new one of them too. So I ordered all new Dorman heavy duty front end parts, adjusted the gear box and went back. Toe wasn't too hateful and they said the gearbox adjustment was perfect. But it wanders all over the damn road! Does anybody have any ideas? This is my 1st Jeep, I got it to be able to spend more time with my daughter as her husband and his father are BIG TIME into Jeeps but they have older ones with V8 swaps, locked diffs, hydraulic steering and all sorts of goodies! I know mine will never be as awesome as theirs but my wife and I would love to at least go out and have fun. And right now.... its no fun.

Thanks in advance

Mods, if I have posted this in the incorrect place please move it where it should be posted. Thank you. 😁

Last edited by Jackalope; Nov 16, 2023 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 04:15 PM
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Welcome to JKF. looks like you covered all the wear bases .. on the wander what wheels are u running .. how much back space? also HOW much CASTER do you have after the Lift install? You might find more info with this video too:
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 04:31 PM
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You can correct your caster angles with either front adjustable lower control arms or brackets. This can help a bit.

i would also measure the toe by hand. This is an adjustment you can do yourself by hand. Since you replaced your tie rod, it should be easy to do/ not seized.

if your lift kit did not come with a front track bar, this too would be a problem.
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 04:33 PM
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Wheels are factory Rubicon wheels it came with and 1.5" spacers. Caster is 3degrees.
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by horrocks007
You can correct your caster angles with either front adjustable lower control arms or brackets. This can help a bit.

i would also measure the toe by hand. This is an adjustment you can do yourself by hand. Since you replaced your tie rod, it should be easy to do/ not seized.

if your lift kit did not come with a front track bar, this too would be a problem.
The kit did not come with a track bar. All of the alignment numbers are green except the caster at 3 degrees. Would the issues from a track bar show up on the alignment?
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 05:09 PM
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With your wheel straight, measure how far each wheel sticks out past the fender. Likely with a 2.5” lift your drivers side sticks our further. This would indicate a need for an adjustable track bar that can be set to the proper length.

You caster being off would be the first problem to address in my opinion. But both could have an effect.

I know it doesn’t seem like much, but it has the same effect as having a ton of bricks in the back of a pick up truck. All the geometry changes and makes your steering feel flighty.
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by horrocks007
With your wheel straight, measure how far each wheel sticks out past the fender. Likely with a 2.5” lift your drivers side sticks our further. This would indicate a need for an adjustable track bar that can be set to the proper length.

You caster being off would be the first problem to address in my opinion. But both could have an effect.

I know it doesn’t seem like much, but it has the same effect as having a ton of bricks in the back of a pick up truck. All the geometry changes and makes your steering feel flighty.
Thank you! What do you think about the ball joints that allow the caster to be adjusted? They say they give 1 degree. That would give me 4 degrees total. Would that be enough? The ball joints are only $30ea.

Are Rancho adjustable track bars and control arms any good?
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 01:33 PM
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Ok, just picked up a set of Rubicon LCA's that are supposed to correct for caster. I also lowered the air on the tires to 32psi.

Is there anything else I can do?
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 07:36 PM
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3 degree caster is damn low. That needs to be over 4 degrees at a minimum....4.5 - 5 is more preferred. The trackbar is one of the most important components. It's more than is it just adjustable or not. The types of joints and their longevity are a big deal here. You should pick something with a bushing like what Metalcloak or Synergy use. The Metalcloak stuff is top notch and competitively priced. If you go cheap on things you're only going to bring more misery upon yourself. $30 ball joints.....well, you're gonna get $60 ball joints. When a decent ball joints costs ya $250 minimum, that should give you an idea of what you're getting for $30. Should have just gotten control arm brackets to raise the caster back up. $100-150 and well worth it.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
3 degree caster is damn low. That needs to be over 4 degrees at a minimum....4.5 - 5 is more preferred. The trackbar is one of the most important components. It's more than is it just adjustable or not. The types of joints and their longevity are a big deal here. You should pick something with a bushing like what Metalcloak or Synergy use. The Metalcloak stuff is top notch and competitively priced. If you go cheap on things you're only going to bring more misery upon yourself. $30 ball joints.....well, you're gonna get $60 ball joints. When a decent ball joints costs ya $250 minimum, that should give you an idea of what you're getting for $30. Should have just gotten control arm brackets to raise the caster back up. $100-150 and well worth it.

Thank you I'll check them out! I decided against the ball joints cause I just put new ones it! I went with Rubicon Express lower control arms. I'll be installing them today. I have the rear lowers on order and will be replacing the uppers too. Track bars are both getting replaced, they're next on the list. The front lowers I got are designed to put the caster back after adding up to a 4" lift so they should do the trick. (Fingers crossed)

It isn't I'm trying to go cheap it's I've already put quite a bit of money into my Jeep with no end in sight. I'm 51 and I've had muscle cars my whole life, this is my 1st Jeep and am getting just a little frustrated with it but I know it's not the Jeeps fault as it wasn't taken care of prior to me owning it, I'm just stuck catching it up on everything. I'm hoping after I replace all the control arms and track bars that I'll finally be able to just enjoy it for a while! I'm looking forward to starting my collection of Jeep badges.
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