I'm certainly not implying you are cheap, but these jeeps are certainly one of those things where first time owners don't know what they don't know. There are a lot of companies out there that retail establishments peddle to the unkowning public that just aren't super great, though, these retailers have business relationships, profit margins, etc.....and they push what they push. Rough Country and Rubicon Express are two manufacturers that come to mind. They market their items with an attractive sticker price and that is what people focus on. What people don't realize is that 1) most the packages are either not including needed components, 2) are skimping on quality of components, and/or 3) really don't have great components due to design. A couple examples would be a lift that doesn't include an adjustable track bar, or uses brake line relocation brackets, or does not include bump stops, or includes cam bolts to adjust caster. These rigs are unlike other things on the road, and the old adage "buy once, cry once" is as true as it gets in this application.

I mention that primarily due to the brands you've noted thus far. I'm not sure anyone of us would have suggested Dorman steering products for a modded Jeep that is going to venture off road. That is not to say anything is going to blow up or fail quickly, but when it comes to replacing things what comes to mind is "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right". For a little more cash outlay, you can get products that are in a completely different ballpark in terms of suitability and quality. So, when I say "cheap", I'm certainly not implying that you are being cheap, but that those products are often inferior in every way relative to what the better option would be.

One note about the steering box. That really isn't meant to be adjusted. Normally when it comes to that point it's just time for a new steering box. Your jeep is not that old and I wouldn't have thought the box to be an issue. I will never tamper with trying to adjust a steering box on these things myself.

In regard to your previous more general "Jeep" issues, it does kinda stink that you've had to put some money into this, and some of the jobs just ain't fun. I'm glad you don't blame the Jeep. We certainly have a few common problems with our cooling systems, oil coolers, and valve trains. Add in suspension and steering issues that Wranglers will often have over time and these machines become a labor of love. I can tell you I have a love/hate relationship with mine. I've torn into my axles, suspension, cooling, and engine so many times in the last decade that I've lost count. This was the state of my engine this week -



Anyhow, we have a nice community here. There aren't many people that are going to just chime in and say "you have crap components" or this or that, and I try to keep my commentary constructive but honest based on the way I see it. Several of us are happy to provide support and suggestions. I might just say it's worth asking for opinions on future upgrades or mods. Many of us have a lot of experience and seen a lot of things over the years and are happy to at least share opinions or suggestions. At the end of the day it's each owner's decision on what to do. The one good thing is that these Jeeps are relatively easy to work on .

 

I went with Dorman because they're greasable, have oversized chromoly ball joints silicon bootd and the tie rod diameters are larger than stock. Everything the higher priced ones have but the price. The Rubicon Express arms are chromoly have the metel bushings and a lifetime warranty. The rough country springs have a decent warranty and the shocks are better than the stock ones it had. Please do not think I'm being rude cause I certainly do not want to sound that way but when I started doing things to my Jeep everyone is quick to spend my money on the very best bomb proof this or that, that can tackle anything off road. But I'm only trying to mildly upgrade my Jeep, I'm not trying for the ultimate build and I'll be lucky if I find a mud puddle to drive through! I'm just outside of Baltimore and work 1/2 way to D.C. It's my daily driver and with the traffic around here I just want it to behave itself.

The lower arms are on and they helped BIG TIME! I only went to go get gas but it stays where it should! No more getting lost in the lane!

 

That Caster is, IMO, too little, Look:You want your caster between 4 and 4.5 degrees. This is what factory calls for. Once you do that, your driveline angle will automatically be where it needs to. If you go higher on the caster, you will have improved steering but you could risk getting driveline vibrations.Oct 23, 2019

Ours after the AEV 2.5" lift were in the 4.5 degree range AND we installed Geometry Correction Brackets (Rancho) which put the control arms level and Caster at the 4.5 number..and yes running 35 12.50s we do get follow the road crown or wear troughs pulls.

 

I just got Rubicon Express LCAs last night and installed them this morning and it seems to be much better. I'm at the vets right now with 2 of my Huskies so when I get done I'll check the caster angle.

 

What would be a good brand track bar to go with? Front and rear. How about control arms? My apologies if it sounded like I took your post as an implication that I'm cheap, it certainly wasn't my intention. As I said it's frustrating getting information overload on the topic. I don't mind spending extra if there's a good reason for the cost, ie metal bearing rather than rubber bushings for the suspension parts. But at the same time if a different brand offers an identical product for less money I'm not one who is impressed simply by a name brand, especially being new to Jeeps I have absolutely no clue what brand is better than another other than reviews and comparisons if the parts. Believe me when I say ANY recommendations are most welcomed!

BTW the Rubicon Express LCA's seem to have done the trick. However I do see movement from the trackbar so that's next up. Probably next weekend if I can get it delivered after I figure out what brand to get!
Are RPM parts any good? How about JKS?

 

Y, information overload is par for the course. This is the TB I would always suggest -

https://metalcloak.com/durotrak-trac...-wrangler.html

This company is about the best thing going for our rigs in terms of design, and their pricing is reasonable. Top quality but still less than a lot of other brands out there. I would always steer away from TBs that use a heim or poly style joint. That TB is one of your most important components cuz when they go it's wobble time. The bushing that MC uses is a great joint. Synergy's is similar but they are pricier. I went through 3 previous TBs before finally just buying the MC one. Started with a cheap Pro Comp lift when I got my jeep and then replaced everything. I didn't know what I didn't know. Then came a Synergy TB, followed by a Rock Krawler TB with anti wobble joint that wobbled over time....and then on to the MC TB. My jeep is kinda a Frankenlift so I am not married to brands. I say that cuz in the rear I actually just have a Rough Country rear TB and I hate that company.....but it gets the job done. The rear TB is just not that important of a component. It centers the axle and that is it. That front TB centers the axle but all of your axle-side steering joints/components rely on the connection the TB makes between axle and frame. In the rear I would think you can get by with just a quality raised TB bracket. You want to raise that anyhow, if not already, to improve your roll center. I again note "quality" cuz I have personally had a cheap rear TB bracket break off the axle. That is not a fun experience. Weld on is always best, but at least something that doesn't just rely on a single bolt through the factory TB mount and 2 pieces of metal that raise the mount up.

JKS is an ok brand, but I wouldn't prefer them for suspension or steering myself. I do have JKS quicker disconnecting sway links I really like, and they have a few decent brackets. I don't have personal experience with RPM parts. They never come up much for our application.

 

Wow! That's not a bad price at all! That'll be going on next! Thank you!

How about control arms?

 

I bought full set of MC control arms. They were my first MC products actually and I was sold hook, line, and sinker on them in terms of their joints and the actual bends and alignment when installed. I wish I had just bought MC lift right out of the gate. I had a really steep learning curve myself back in the day. It was an expensive journey.

 

Cool! I saw their control arms, they cost a little more than the Rubicon Express arms but if they're better they're worth it. I only have a 2.5" lift so I'm going to guess I'd need what they're calling medium length arms? Not sure if I want fully adjustable control arms though, are they reliable for a daily driver?

 

you already have those arms installed so no reason to worry too much bout it. You'll see the terms "short" or "mid" arms. All the same....some refer to adjustable arms as mid-arms. I would have argued that for your application the best thing was probably a $150 set of Rancho control arm brackets for your DD that will go off road from time to time. The reason is that control arm brackets will both correct caster AND keep the control arms running at a more level angle. Obviously your lift has raised the body side mounts so now your control arms are running at a steeper angle which is a bit more rough in terms of pavement ride. There are pros and cons to both methods. The con to control arm brackets is a bit loss of ground clearance at your frame rail.....but that is really not a big deal for most, and the better pavement ride is a big plus for many.

Adjustability is often comparable between manufacturers. The real differences between brands come down to the style and quality of joints and the bends in the components for alignment or clearances. The method of adjustability sometimes comes into play but it shouldn't be a major factor. For your lift you should be able to get by with just the front lower arms to correct your caster. If what you have is working fine then swapping to something else isn't going to make a big difference.