Immediate help needed!!!!!!!
#21
JK Super Freak
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Wow just got done at 2:00 AM SHITTTTY
No im not retarded....I just learned that driveshafts are the worst thing to do.
Well that i have done so far.
NOT FUN FOR ME
I got everything in but the torque wrench that had the needle was wierd and i just torched everything down real tight and drove home....well no sounds so far but i think the dust cover is clinging around a little and i will have to put some clear silicone to fix that.
No im not retarded....I just learned that driveshafts are the worst thing to do.
Well that i have done so far.
NOT FUN FOR ME
I got everything in but the torque wrench that had the needle was wierd and i just torched everything down real tight and drove home....well no sounds so far but i think the dust cover is clinging around a little and i will have to put some clear silicone to fix that.
#22
JK Super Freak
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You know its wierd though....The Teraflex instructions say nothing about doing this rotational bull crap and just give you torque settings.
Im just going to torque them to these specs and see what happens i guess. This jeep thing is wearing on me a little.
Im just going to torque them to these specs and see what happens i guess. This jeep thing is wearing on me a little.
#23
I didn't follow those instrucitons on the rotational torque. It's only to keep things straight. Just make sure its on straight and you're fine. Sorry to hear it was so tough to get it off - I know the feeling. I thought mine was never going to come off either, but after about 8-10 solid minutes of hammering the shit out of it with the impact gun it finally came off.
#24
JK Super Freak
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Wow ya it was a tough one.
I talked to a guy at an autoparts store and he said if you just torx it tight it will be catastrophic to the gears and axle.
However now i just talke to a guy at 4 wheel parts and he said to disregard the specs of 160 ft lbs in the rear and 120 ft lbs in the front and just torx it until it stops.
Im clueless and now im just tired and frustrated!!!!!!!
I talked to a guy at an autoparts store and he said if you just torx it tight it will be catastrophic to the gears and axle.
However now i just talke to a guy at 4 wheel parts and he said to disregard the specs of 160 ft lbs in the rear and 120 ft lbs in the front and just torx it until it stops.
Im clueless and now im just tired and frustrated!!!!!!!
#25
did you replace the pinion nut? If not, did you mark the relationship of the nut to the axle before removing it? That is not a replacement for proper torque but it can be a decent start.
#26
JK Super Freak
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Don't listen to the sales people at a store. The sticker on my new Yoke said 180ft/lbs and to use red locktite. I just had to go in the garage and find the sticker. Sorry it took so long. Mine is from Tom Woods. I've put many miles on it since changing the yokes out. Everything is fine.
Mine is from Tom Woods
Mine is from Tom Woods
#27
The rotational torque is more for when you replace gears so that you can get the bearing preload right when compressing the crush sleeve. Since the crush sleeve is already compressed when you are changing drive shafts, I wouldn't use rotational torque as a measurement. If you do, you may actually get the prelaod on the bearings too tight, since the crush sleeve is already compressed. That's the last thing you need.
#28
JK Super Freak
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The rotational torque is more for when you replace gears so that you can get the bearing preload right when compressing the crush sleeve. Since the crush sleeve is already compressed when you are changing drive shafts, I wouldn't use rotational torque as a measurement. If you do, you may actually get the prelaod on the bearings too tight, since the crush sleeve is already compressed. That's the last thing you need.
Im kinda dissapointed with JE REEL they gave no instructions and no specs for the torque settings. I mean how are you supposed to know these things????