Immediate help needed!!!!!!!
#31
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Also, regarding torque - as redneck pointed out the crush sleeve is the thing to be concerned about.
I didn't even torque mine - I just made sure they were damn tight. But when you tighten them down I would advise against using an impact gun. That's asking for overtorque and crush sleeve damage.
#32
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thanks jackmac.. I just tightened them damn tight and no impact wrench.....
I do think i might take them back off this weekend and loctite the nuts on there but IDK if i really need to.
Did any of you have your dust ring on the rear axle move and make any noise. Mine has alot of play in the dust ring and I can move it freely with my hand. When i drive it makes kinda a clanging noise. I think this is it.
I do think i might take them back off this weekend and loctite the nuts on there but IDK if i really need to.
Did any of you have your dust ring on the rear axle move and make any noise. Mine has alot of play in the dust ring and I can move it freely with my hand. When i drive it makes kinda a clanging noise. I think this is it.
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#34
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Thanks redneckjeep. That is what the guy from 4 wheel parts said and he said if i just hit with an impact and wait till it stops turnign then i would be fine. I torqued the one at the transfer case until it wouldnt turn anymore and then the one for the rear axle i torqued with a ratchet until it wouldnt torque. I didnt over torque though so i think i should be fine. My dust cover has alot of play though so i guess i will have to silicone that to the diff so it wont make noise.
Im kinda dissapointed with JE REEL they gave no instructions and no specs for the torque settings. I mean how are you supposed to know these things????
Im kinda dissapointed with JE REEL they gave no instructions and no specs for the torque settings. I mean how are you supposed to know these things????
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EDIT: No offense here....but often times companies take for granted that if you're doing jobs such as drive shafts and the like that you're pretty seasoned and know some of the basic stuff. Tapered roller bearing stuff IS pretty basic.....that is to say IF you've worked on and around vehicles a lot. I do agree though, that they should include instructions and specs. I am sure that you paid for it in the initial price of the shafts.
Last edited by RedneckJeep; 01-08-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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That sounds right. You want it to stop because you WANT SOME preload. You just don't want too much. ![Thumb](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
EDIT: No offense here....but often times companies take for granted that if you're doing jobs such as drive shafts and the like that you're pretty seasoned and know some of the basic stuff. Tapered roller bearing stuff IS pretty basic.....that is to say IF you've worked on and around vehicles a lot. I do agree though, that they should include instructions and specs. I am sure that you paid for it in the initial price of the shafts.
![Thumb](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
EDIT: No offense here....but often times companies take for granted that if you're doing jobs such as drive shafts and the like that you're pretty seasoned and know some of the basic stuff. Tapered roller bearing stuff IS pretty basic.....that is to say IF you've worked on and around vehicles a lot. I do agree though, that they should include instructions and specs. I am sure that you paid for it in the initial price of the shafts.
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No its not the same clanging noise. The dust cover is optional it just sits a little further back and when i hit the gas (turn the driveshaft) it sounds like its moving with it but then it stops. If it was the same sound as before i would be jumping off a cliff right about now..
EVERYONE THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!!!!
EVERYONE THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!!!!
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we hit it with a hammer, put WD40 on it, hit with a hammer, cursed at it, impact wrenched it, locked the brakes and then slammed down on a breaker bar and it broke free lol....
WHAT A NIGHT IM READY FOR BED.
WHAT A NIGHT IM READY FOR BED.