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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Lift kit trigger being pulled soon

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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 12:51 PM
  #11  
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You could always do the 18/59 springs and rubi shocks. I did that with 1/2 inch spacers and got a solid 2 inches out of that combo, and rides close to stock. I am into my set-up for about $350,
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 01:03 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Since you don't look like you are looking to maximize articulation for some serious rock crawling I would look at this kit from metal cloak https://www.metalcloak.com/4-Door-Je...ost-p/7126.htm. It has a dual rate coil for good road manners and has caster correction and shock extenders so you can re use your stock shocks. If you think you need new shocks metal cloak has their value based rock sport shocks and you might also look at Rancho as they are well received for a budget shock.
i have run this kit for a little over a year and Ive been happy. I never did run the shock extensions or relocations since i purchased correct length fox shocks from the start but overall ive been really happy with the product.
Since adding a bunch of weight I am upgrading out of it into a little different setup (2.5" 4 dr springs and UCA up front)...the coils (2.5"2 door) and Drop brackets are up on the chopping block....
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 02:32 PM
  #13  
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And ordered today.
https://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Overla...cks-p/7147.htm

I'll show off or gripe depending how the install goes.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 04:22 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Seizer
I'll show off or gripe depending how the install goes.
LOL. You'll probably have fun with one of the most simple things.....removing the frame side upper control arm bolt on the passenger side to get your CA brackets installed. IIRC, exhaust on the 3.8L gets in the way. Pretty sure you'll be happy with MC in general.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 04:34 PM
  #15  
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That's roughly the equivalent of what I've got but with the Rancho shocks. To answer your question from another thread- the JKS 0-2" links work, but aren't ideal. I've got them maxed out and the bar isn't where I'd like it to be.

On the exhaust and that bracket- if you loosen everything up, pull the arm from the axle, swing it around, then finish taking the frame side bolt out then there's no cutting necessary.


The Metalcloak definitely sits higher than the RK did. Everything else being equal- the coils ride better and I haven't had the ass end drop with a small trailer like the RK did.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 04:51 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
That's roughly the equivalent of what I've got but with the Rancho shocks. To answer your question from another thread- the JKS 0-2" links work, but aren't ideal. I've got them maxed out and the bar isn't where I'd like it to be.
On the exhaust and that bracket- if you loosen everything up, pull the arm from the axle, swing it around, then finish taking the frame side bolt out then there's no cutting necessary.
The Metalcloak definitely sits higher than the RK did. Everything else being equal- the coils ride better and I haven't had the ass end drop with a small trailer like the RK did.
Good to know. I will not be using their geometry correction brackets, as I purchased their front CAs from another forum member. I got them to withdraw the correction brackets from the kit. I will be using their sway bar links and posting my JKS adjustable ones up for sale. Thanks for the advice on getting the control arm out.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 06:17 PM
  #17  
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Still had to cut that bolt Karl. Not a big deal dremel made short work of it. The only major snag I ran into was lower control into axle brackets. The MC bushing was too wide to slip in with out massive persuasion. I chose not to persuade them into the axle and had them machined down to slip in a little snug.

One thing about MCs front sway bar links is the sway bar does not sit level. It sits high. I thought easy fix. Just cut threads to length. Called MC to be sure they said don’t!!!! They are worried that the sway bar would flip down if cut. -shrug-

Here’s the finished product. Loving it.




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Old May 9, 2018 | 06:30 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Seizer
One thing about MCs front sway bar links is the sway bar does not sit level. It sits high. I thought easy fix. Just cut threads to length. Called MC to be sure they said don’t!!!! They are worried that the sway bar would flip down if cut. -shrug-
Better too high than too low. Is it angled up more than a couple degrees? Looking good! Time to tackle some larger rocks!
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Old May 10, 2018 | 03:44 AM
  #19  
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That looks really sharp and the functionality of it will blow your mind. Where you are now to 35's is an easy jump with some fender trimming. That's where I am and it does everything you'd need.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 12:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Better too high than too low. Is it angled up more than a couple degrees? Looking good! Time to tackle some larger rocks!
iPhone inclinometer says -16 degrees. No issues handling.
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