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Lock nut/lockwasher

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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:09 AM
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Default Lock nut/lockwasher

I didn't think about this till the last minute, I've decided while installing my RK lift that I'm going to use the 9/16 8 grade bolt for the front track bar and control arms, I found the bolts at a local hardware store but they don't have the lock nut only the lock washer, is it ok to use the lock washer on front trackbar instead of the lock nut?? We installed rear last night, just waiting to see what I need to do for nut/washer for the front. Sitting at a pretty decent rake right now lol
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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should be fine, but you can add loctite if you have any to help also. You could always swap nuts down the road also if it bugs you.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
should be fine, but you can add loctite if you have any to help also. You could always swap nuts down the road also if it bugs you.

Awesome, thanks!
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:29 AM
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Lock washers are no better than no locking device. (In fact, they may be worse in some cases.)
Once compressed from bolt torque, it is just a flat washer with a crack in it.
If the nut backs off enough to bring back the spring tension feature of the lock washer, the joint has lost its integrity.
At that point, the joint has failed.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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9/16" hardware didn't fit on the RK arms and track bars I just installed last week.

I had to find my old OEM hardware.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OH9JK
9/16" hardware didn't fit on the RK arms and track bars I just installed last week.

I had to find my old OEM hardware.
rk is one of the only kits those dont work on, you have to drill them. the rks come in the correct metric size.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
Lock washers are no better than no locking device. (In fact, they may be worse in some cases.)
Once compressed from bolt torque, it is just a flat washer with a crack in it.
If the nut backs off enough to bring back the spring tension feature of the lock washer, the joint has lost its integrity.
At that point, the joint has failed.
this is true also. mine held that way for a long time, but i did eventually switch to a nylock and loctite. I wouldnt worry in the mean time till you can find something else. especially if you used a fine thread bolt.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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Thanks everyone, I thought u had to replace the oem bolts with the bigger 9/16 to prevent DW??? Is this fact or fiction??
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ronixwrangler
Thanks everyone, I thought u had to replace the oem bolts with the bigger 9/16 to prevent DW??? Is this fact or fiction??
The OEM bolts are smaller than the holes they go through in the arms and the brackets.
The bolts in the kits are big enough to take up the slack, and I think they also have finer threads.
So, yes, the bigger bolts can mitigate one potential source of DW.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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they also should be shouldered instead of full thread.
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