Longarm kits compared/contrasted
Stock length arms are fully capable of 12" travel shocks, but that is about the max.
Regarding your question, what matters is geometry, physics, ground clearance, etc.
If you really want to learn this stuff, you could start reading about the builds listed in this thread, and you could scroll down to the Four Link Corner portion of the first post and read those links as well:
Ultimate Wrangler Build Ups and Swaps thread - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Then, you could move over to Part 1 of the coilover bible:
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
Regarding your question, what matters is geometry, physics, ground clearance, etc.
If you really want to learn this stuff, you could start reading about the builds listed in this thread, and you could scroll down to the Four Link Corner portion of the first post and read those links as well:
Ultimate Wrangler Build Ups and Swaps thread - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Then, you could move over to Part 1 of the coilover bible:
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
As TheDirtman and I have explained/alluded, long arm kits that are designed within the constraints of keeping stock axle side bracketry and navigating the body mount shown earlier in the pics may not result in materially improved performance on and off road, other than flatter angles when much taller springs are used.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
As TheDirtman and I have explained/alluded, long arm kits that are designed within the constraints of keeping stock axle side bracketry and navigating the body mount shown earlier in the pics may not result in materially improved performance on and off road, other than flatter angles when much taller springs are used.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
As TheDirtman and I have explained/alluded, long arm kits that are designed within the constraints of keeping stock axle side bracketry and navigating the body mount shown earlier in the pics may not result in materially improved performance on and off road, other than flatter angles when much taller springs are used.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
The challenge for the manufacturers is to make something that works well, while being simple enough to install that the installer can't screw it up so that it doesn't work well.
Going with custom fabrication can lead you to bad results if not done properly by someone with a lot of experience and knowledge.
So a long arms system with coil over might be the ultimate setup but comes at a steep price.
My long arm coil over set up cost around $4k + my time. I have components from king, synergy, genright, ruff stuff, ballistic, metal cloak. The only kit out there that is close to what I have done is the new Genright double triangulated rear lift and their elite coil over kit.
That make me think that anything that is bolt-on from a reputable company should give you some results if you follow the instructions carefully.
Going with custom fabrication can lead you to bad results if not done properly by someone with a lot of experience and knowledge.
So a long arms system with coil over might be the ultimate setup but comes at a steep price.
Going with custom fabrication can lead you to bad results if not done properly by someone with a lot of experience and knowledge.
So a long arms system with coil over might be the ultimate setup but comes at a steep price.
My long arm coil over set up cost around $4k + my time. I have components from king, synergy, genright, ruff stuff, ballistic, metal cloak. The only kit out there that is close to what I have done is the new Genright double triangulated rear lift and their elite coil over kit.
JK ELITE Coilover Suspension Package, 4 Door JK ELITE Coilover Suspension Package, 4 Door
Model Year 4 Door JK 2012 to present
Shock Options Internal Bypass (IBP) Upgrade
Tie Rod & Drag Link CrMo Hi-Steer Kit Dana 60
Front Axle Currie Rock Jock 60 w/Hi Steer
Rear Axle Currie Rock Jock 60
Steering Box AGR Hyrdo Assist
Drive Shaft Upgrade JE Reel Front & Rear 1350 joints $35,449.99 $35,449.99
What size tires do you plan to run?
Will you run flat flares?
How tall a lift do you think you need?
What kind of off road terrain will you do and how frequently?
At what speeds will you drive in off road terrain?
2 dr or 4 dr?
How often will you drive obstacles that are extremely steep (enough to make your low oil dash light turn on if you stay there too long)?
Will you tow with your jeep? If so, how heavy and how often?
Will you run flat flares?
How tall a lift do you think you need?
What kind of off road terrain will you do and how frequently?
At what speeds will you drive in off road terrain?
2 dr or 4 dr?
How often will you drive obstacles that are extremely steep (enough to make your low oil dash light turn on if you stay there too long)?
Will you tow with your jeep? If so, how heavy and how often?
Flat or cut flares.
3.5", maybe 4.5" at most.
I don't know how many steep obstacles. As many as I can?!?
4 door, no towing.
Mostly trails, some rocks. I plan to hit Rubicon, Fordyce, Slickrock, et al and venture into Sierras and Nevada. Moab at least once or twice. I like to go fast and I want adjustability, thus coilovers and longarms.
Anything out there that is bolt on will be very compromised geometry wise. Ask for link mount measurements and plug them into the calculator and you will see. Bolt on kits are built for people that want to do it them selves with no skills or want to be able to put the jeep back to stock when they sell it.




