DaK

Have been going back and forth between Magnuson and Ripp for a couple of yrs. Have been thinking about the low end performance of the Magnuson and if I really need that on the trail? Currently have a 4:1 transfer case, 5.38 gears and rolling 37's. Am thinking more power down low is not going to help me during any rock crawling expeditions, in fact may cause additional stress on the drive train that is not needed. Then again, just have to re-learn how to wheel with the additional power down low. On the other hand, out here it is not so much a performance issue on the trail as is the performance issue getting TO the trail. Lots of highway time and long grades. As we all know the 3.8 just sucks for passing anything, including trucks in the right hand lane doing 55 MPH. LOL. In this application I believe a centrifugal unit is better, so a RIPP or Sprintex model.

Have had both, centrifugal on a 11 sec Mustang GT and a roots on an F 150 Lightning. Both have their merits, just have to sit down and do a +/-'s chart to your application. For us and having to cover lots of highway and long grades it is looking like the RIPP will suit the bill just right. Others may want that off the line grunt where the roots style performs best.

Good luck with your decision. More than sure either unit will perform fine for you.

B 1000

Both Magnuson and RIPP are going to give you great power. But as mentioned before, each one has it's own style of power delivery.

One major difference is that the RIPP is louder. If you want people to know you're boosted, RIPP is that. It hisses at idle even, and has a big shiny intercooler up front for everyone to see. Magnuson sounds damn near stock, it's pretty crazy actually. And their intercooler is a bit more subtle.

Sadly, you will have to spend a little more money on the 2015. Need to do an ECU swap.

srunyon

Sprintex seems interesting, but i can't find much about it on the 3.6...found a lot on the 3.8, but not the 3.6. Would love to see the dyno comparison on a few of these. Low end is important!

SAJK

Sprintex is twin screw. Not roots or centrifugal. Very good power at low rpm. Have a read of this. They are available for a variety of pentastar platforms IE RAM,Wrangler etc.

Roots vs. Centrifugal vs. Screw Type Supercharging : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power

gfurm

This is a massively good read and will help with the decision. It really does boil down to preference because there is no one truly better than the other. One DOES produce more power on the dyno (Ripp) but the Maggie has a very smooth power and torque curve. The FEEL of power is much different than the story a dyno graph tells about WHP. Head to head 1/4 mile it seems they are close enough that the driver would make the difference not the SC. Prodigy system on the other hand...well thats just a different animal but who is going to drag their JKs?

http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?32...ootout!/page16

I am leaning towards the Maggie, the smooth power curve is an even application of power on all moving parts including my axles and clutch. I have built boosted imports where upon full spool of the turbo the clutch would slip, had it been a gradual increase in power (roots or twin screw style) it would have held better (replaced regardless) on the other hand had the power been there off the line it would snap axles like it was it's job. My rig is a daily driver and with 37s and 410 gears the passing power is OK but would be great to get a little more go, passing wreaks havoc on my fuel consumption. I am not dumping the clutch off the line I just want to get going faster and reliably.


My recommendation and what I will be doing in the next week or two is speak to Magnuson and speak to Ripp, they have educated teams, engineers even, that will run your through the differences and guide you to make a decision.

My concerns and what I will be going to the companies with are the following with whatever else comes to mind:

1. how often do tune updates come out and how do i access them?
2. what is the warranty on the system and parts?
3. what does this do to the factory warranty?
4. do you have any customer experiences with visits to the dealer with the kit installed?
5. if any issues arise, MAF, surge, idle, etc. how do they get handled and who's responsibility is it?

Reading people's opinions here is great and ultra useful but biased at times. Due diligence is a must when making an investment like this, I have heard a few nightmarish stories of 30k warranties and if you have 28k on the rig and install a SC, you have 2k left before its up, also MAF sensor issues with the Maggie kit but heresay, nothing I've read about. Either way gotta do the HW. /soapbox

GF

Prodigy Performance

The turbo isn't specifically for drag racing. We do present drag racing videos because it's a very simple and easy to understand demonstration of the power that our turbo systems can give your Wrangler. We can talk numbers and torque/power curves all day, but when you see a Jeep Wrangler beat a new Mustang GT 5.0 in the 1/4 mile, that really puts it into perspective.


While there is a fairly quick ramp-up of boost in the mid RPM range at full throttle in lower transmission gears with our turbo system, it's not a harsh sudden "hit" of boost. No problems with the stock clutch holding the power, but I have chirped my tires a few times in 1st gear when the boost ramps up. For part-throttle daily driving, that ramp-up of boost is subtle. It's very easy to drive smoothly as a daily driver.

When quickly pressing the pedal, the turbo spools up smoothly over a short period of time, resulting in a smooth application of power through the drivetrain, rather than a sudden shock load, so the turbo is actually less strain on the drivetrain components.


I think most would agree that you are not geared very well for your tire size. You really should re-gear before considering forced induction. The most noticeable difference would be that taking off from a complete stop will be quicker and easier with less clutch slipping, but it will also "feel" more powerful/effortless and perform better in many other daily driving situations. Looks like you should be deciding between 4.56 or 4.88, depending on your preference for low speed performance vs keeping RPMs lower on the freeway for better fuel economy. 4.56 for you would be somewhat similar to stock tires with 3.73, and 4.88 would be somewhat similar to stock tires with 4.10. Your current combination is close to being like stock tires with 3.21 gears.


Considering that there is no MAF sensor on the Wrangler, I'd have to say this is definitely hearsay

~Jeff

jeeptrav21

I'm running a RIPP on my 2011 it's nice and the sound is beautiful that being said. It doesn't do anything for me offroad. And on road it really only helps passing on freeways. It definitly boosts power but doesn't kick in until after 2500 rpm. Great product but honestly don't know that I would do any form of boost again just run the jeep n/a as long as reheated they do fine from all my family and friends that have jks and are na at the price tag of about 5k I'd rather buy coilovers if I had it to do over