D3ADLY

Putting zone or bds shocks on a MetalCloak kit is not a wise decision in my opinion. You're buying a higher end great riding kit then putting crappy horrible riding shocks on it. Partly defeats the purpose of a MetalCloak kit.

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snags922

I am looking at the Game Changer 2.5" or 3.5" ARB Edition for my 2012 JKUR. I am wondering what the ride height difference is between the 2.5" and the 3.5". I hope it isn't the obvious 1"......lol! If you have a 4-door and you put either the 2.5" or 3.5" Game Changer ARB Edition lift, what was the change in height from stock on the front and rear?

I have Nitto Trail Grappler 295s (which measure about 33.5") on my Jeep now but plan on getting 37s when these wear out. I emailed Eric at MC and he recommended the 3.5" lift for the 4-door. I was also looking at another lift company and they recommended a 2.5" lift. I am going to get an MC lift but need some help on whether to go with the 2.5" or 3.5".

TheDirtman

Height is going to depend on the weight of your jeep.

You see the coil springs are designed to hold the weight of your vehicle and have a coil rate. The coil rate and the length of the coils will determine how much height you will get. The more your jeep weighs the less height you will get out of it. On the same jeep there should be a 1" difference between the 2.5" lift and the 3.5" lift.

snags922

I have a Body Armor front bumper with front skid plate and Warn 10000S (lighter weight with the synthetic rope) and a Body Armor rear bumper with tire carrier. So, I'm not sure if that is classified as a light or heavy build. The build I have drooped the stock suspension about 1/2" all around. So from what you are saying, it sounds like if I have additional weight, I might want to go with the 3.5" lift that Eric from MC recommended.

suprablaski

Bare in mind MC runs tall to account for weight, I read plenty of people installing the 3.5 in a stock jk and claiming 4-4.5 of lift. I would call your rig about average and if you run the 2.5 you might end up around 3". All speculation of course but I've read plenty who say MC accounts for weight by making their coils a bit longer


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Recharge

I got right at 3" with my 2.5 MC GCL in the front. That's with a Metalcloak front bumper, Engo 12k winch with Synthetic line, and full Rock Hard skid plates. If I was running some heavy flares and rock sliders, I bet it would be closer to 2.5. It has a bit of rake to it, but that's because I'm not running a spare tire at the moment. I figure that the rake will be almost gone when my JCR bumper and tire carrier finally show up.

snags922

This is all great information. I think I'm going to go with the 2.5" lift. If the 3.5" lift gets close to 4", then I'll have to mess with other issues like the driveshaft - don't really want to do that until it fails. Thanks everyone.

suprablaski

You would have those problems at 3.5" as well, the kit includes control arms so only driveshaft is an issue at 3.5"


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I found that even with the 2.5" lift I needed a new drive shaft. The stock shaft was hitting the exhaust crossover pipe (on my 2013, not sure if you have a different year) before the suspension would reach full droop. It was fine to drive around town and mall crawl, but as soon as it started really flexing the front, the rubber boot would hit the pipe. Plus it put the joint at the transfer case at a pretty extreme angle and was pushing it's limits. Not saying it was going to explode right away, but it was too close for my comfort. A new drive shaft was easy insurance in my mind.

K9wells

X2.... On replacing the front driveshaft!