olram30

what do you mean "fully built"?

n3tfury

Aftermarket front/rear bumper, rock rails, and skids.

olram30

oh, gotcha. so this bracket wouldnt work without that stuff?

Invest2m4

He is sort of on the right track. Most Jeeps aren't fully upfitted and therefore tend to net more lift. So a typical person may get 3.25" with the 2.5" lift. In that case, the taller track bar bracket works well. For a loaded up JK, you get 2.5" (as I did). The shorter bracket seems to work better for some (since the roll center is lower).

The new shorter bracket also adds some clearance with uptravel for those who have the crossmember interference.

Invest2m4

You can keep the stock fronts in if you remove the metal bracket that holds them. It's a pain to bend open, but take a dremel down the back side and it will open far easier. Just don't cut too deep.

The JK brake system is a bit of a pain. You do not want to get air in the lines and then into the abs. A lot of guys have had issues with spongy brakes after switching lines. I only did the rear for that reason.

Best method for replacing the rear lines: have a friend help and,

1. Do one side at a time
2. Disconnect from the hard line and have your friend plug the hard line with a finger so no fluid leaks out (and then air won't get in)
3. Remove stock line
4. Install new line at the caliper
5. Open bleeder and connect bleeder kit
6. Use a medicine dropper and fill the new line (syringe that comes with kids medicine) with fluid until it starts flowing out of the bleeder
7. Close bleeder
8. Connect to hard line (quickly so as to not lose any fluid)
9. Repeat on other side
10. Bleed rear brakes starting with the passenger rear.

n3tfury

Thanks bud, those are damn close to the directions I got some place else too, but better.

kjeeper10

Oh no ... I have both off waiting for new lines/calipers. Am I screwed ?

Invest2m4

Time will tell! You'll most likely need the dealer to bleed the lines. There is a starscan tool that cycles all of abs while bleeding the lines. Some guys say to just go lock your brakes on a dirt road, but I've heard success is limited.

Try a normal bleeding and maybe you'll get lucky. If not, cough it up at the dealer. There's a handful of stories about people who couldn't get the brakes firm again....

kjeeper10

The cap is on and little fluid came out. More of what was in the calipers.

Space Monkey

so basically your truck is sitting with the hardlines open just dripping B/F all over the place? Well i would make sure not to let the master cylinder run low as it will keep dripping slowing until air gets in...but if you keep it topped up and plug the hardlines to stop the leaking then you will be fine. Air wont magically go up the hardlines...they will simply gravity bleed until you plug it. If your master cylinder empties then you will get air in the system and that sucks...off the to dealer you go.