Metalcloak Thread
#1601
Yours looks way dropped!
Just noticed also...did you have your driveshaft off too?
Your setup is definitely capable of alot more droop than stock
Damn nice Jeep btw!
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
Last edited by JayswranglerX; 07-01-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#1602
JK Jedi
Maybe since yours is custom and I still don't have a drag link flip/raised trac bar mount is all I can figure.
Yours looks way dropped!
Just noticed also...did you have your driveshaft off too?
Your setup is definitely capable of alot more droop than stock
Damn nice Jeep btw!
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
Yours looks way dropped!
Just noticed also...did you have your driveshaft off too?
Your setup is definitely capable of alot more droop than stock
Damn nice Jeep btw!
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
thanks man, wasnt trying to promote my jeep, just show that if i were you i would want to know why and when its binding slightly binding means more stress on parts.
#1603
JK Junkie
When I did my 2.5", I just removed the shocks, removed the wheels, disco'd the sway bar, and replaced the brake line ends, and I could droop enough to get the springs in. Basically I followed the instructions and it was fine.
#1604
Hmm idk what happened to me then. Maybe I got the 3.5 springs but I doubt it.
Regardless it's all in and working great.
I'm already thinking about buying the rest of the game changer.
Any one with experience with the 6pack shocks wish they had went with coilovers?
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Regardless it's all in and working great.
I'm already thinking about buying the rest of the game changer.
Any one with experience with the 6pack shocks wish they had went with coilovers?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#1606
JK Enthusiast
Any insight is welcome. The buddy I have helping me hasn't done a lift before either , we're both noobs
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#1607
JK Junkie
Hope that helps. And allow a whole weekend to get it done right (but I did it alone and it was my first time as well). Use your lower CAs to align the axel with the body (center in wheel well, make sure bump stops are aligned, and axel square to frame) and your uppers to set caster/pinion.
#1608
JK Enthusiast
Ok well the instructions say to install the shocks and lower rear control arms before the rear track bar relocation bracket. If you do this, you will have to remove the driver's side upper shock mount bolts and the driver's side lower control arm bolt to install the relocation bracket. Foolish I know, but that's what happens with modular instructions. The easiest way, and I'm all about easy, is to install the relocation bracket at the same time as the lower driver's side control arm, and then attach the driver's side rear tack bar bolt (you can leave the passenger side off and just rest the bar on the rear axle), and then the driver's side shock. This will prevent you from having to unbolt 3 bolts you just installed.
Hope that helps. And allow a whole weekend to get it done right (but I did it alone and it was my first time as well). Use your lower CAs to align the axel with the body (center in wheel well, make sure bump stops are aligned, and axel square to frame) and your uppers to set caster/pinion.
Hope that helps. And allow a whole weekend to get it done right (but I did it alone and it was my first time as well). Use your lower CAs to align the axel with the body (center in wheel well, make sure bump stops are aligned, and axel square to frame) and your uppers to set caster/pinion.
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#1609
JK Junkie
My 2.5 GCL Arb kit came with much more. They must have new options now. So you won't have to redo what you just did. If it's like my track bar relocation bracket, you will just have to remove 1 bolt from the lower CA and the top shock bolts to have access to the driver side attachment point for the track bar. Easy peasy.