3/8 was a bit sloppy. 10 mm was a nice tight fit. Factory spec is 125 Ft. Lbs. It was difficult to stay perpendicular using a hex bit at that torque spec.

 

What is the rational of using such a fastener?

 

Due to the height of the bracket and/or design a traditional bolt head will have some rubbing issues.

 

Can you torque from the other side and use the hex to hold it.. Or his that how it's supposed to be done ?


2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed

 

I would just make it easy and get a 9/16" grade 8 bolt. Or is that possible?

 

That's how I did it.

 

I did final torque with vehicle on ground. Unable to access nut with socket as spring is in the way. It's def tq'd to 125 ft. lbs. right now, but I'll replace it when I get the chance.

 

Just spoke with Will at MC. He confirmed that rather than torquing the countersunk hex bolt, a wrench must be used to tighten the nut (socket wont fit due to spring clearance issues). This is exactly what I originally did, however it bothered me that I never quantified how much I tightened it. When I torqued the hex end a couple of days later is when I made a mess of things. Will was more than happy to ship me a new bolt. Still, I'd rather apply appropriate and quantifiable force.

 

I've torqued and re-torqued that bolt many times and never had an issue. Anyway, pretty sure you can sneak a socket and extension to torque the nut (I've done that as well). Just have to unload the coil to the right position to get it in there.

 

Torqued it with the appropriate fitting and a open wrench with no problem.