I received my upgrade too. I had the same experience as the OP and noticed the new bar was shorter than the original and had many more threads exposed. I went wheeling and had no issues other than the jam nut coming loose. I tightened it right up and had no issues after. But I was also concerned that there wasn't enough thread in the bar, but it worked just fine.

 

Just wanted to let folks know that when wheeling this past weekend, there didn't appear to be any interference or contact issue with my front ARB differential cover and the new "straight" bend track bar design verses the older "hoop" bend design.

Haven't checked it on a ramp yet, but climbed on some fairly intense ledges such that that possible issue is tentatively resolved for now in my mind.

Here's the only pic from this weekend I could find that shows the type of flex which I believe could possibly cause contact (fairly tame, I know).



Here's a pic with some of the ledge stuff we were climbing (muddy and wet no less ).

 

Sweet! Where is that?

 

awwwwwww, come on man, take the center line, its more fun!! dont feel bad for having to get your driver side on the left dirt side. we had a few that had to, the center line is tough but doable, still took me few minutes to get up. coming back down was interesting, i think thats the ledges i bent my rear axle on, i had slammed pretty hard coming off of the big ass rock in mid pic

 

I wish the left side had been just mud - this pic provides a better angle of what's on the left. Those rock outcroppings in front of me here are above the front bumper, but I was able to crawl over them. Some stuff near the top stopped me in my tracks, but at least we learned what line not to take (I was the trail canary on this particular climb).

 

WindRock . . . owned by Coal Creek Company which is engaged in mining, and drilling on the 72,000 acres. They also have a wind turbine "farm" there.

 

I certainly don't want to hijack this thread, but it seems to be perfect for the question I have.

I have a JK 2dr with a 4" Rough Country Suspension lift. The first gen of the RC lift has a flimsy track bar relocation bracket for the frame end. It DEMOLISHED my stock frame-end track bar mount. I recently upgraded to a 1/4" mount, and welded it on.

My and a buddy did it in the garage, and though the welds are strong as hell, the center of the hole on the trackbar is a good inch or so to the passenger side. My axle is now off-center to the passenger by a good inch. This was not noticeable during the welding process. If anyone's had to weld on a new mount on the frame side, they'll understand the obstacles that we needed to overcome. (Spring mount, cross-member bolts, uneven frame rails...)

Most trackbars allow for re-centering to the passenger's side by making the bar longer than stock. I need it to recenter to the driver's side.

My question is this:
- Based on what you're saying about the JKS track bar, would it be easy to adjust it to a length that is SHORTER than stock (to accomodate for my track bar mounting hole being toward the passenger side)?

What model number bar do you have?

Thanks! (Again, sorry if this causes a highjack. If you prefer, you could just PM me.)

 

I agree...I bought mine from David and have not had an issue at all. The track bar doesn't even come close to the cover and the shorter lenght has not been an issue either. I would not worry at all about that man. Slap that sucker on and go wheelin!

 

The trackbar will adjust both ways as long as the negative adjustment isn't greater than where the threads will bottom out on the trackbar tube.

 

Dave has interacted with this thread regularly since it started, so if you hang on, he may pop in and tell you the shortest measurement that the JKS front TB will allow. You might even be able to sweet-talk him into modifying one for you - he has a great reputation on this forum for working with folks on their aftermarket parts needs.