Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

My thoughts on lifts

Thread Tools
 
Old 01-13-2017, 07:52 PM
  #631  
JK Newbie
 
DesertClimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheDirtman
I would find a factory pitman arm and replace it then do a drag link flip with raised axle side track bar bracket. If you wheel it I would do adjustable control arms, if not then do the drop brackets.
Yeah, we plan on wheeling it, but maybe not as hard as the older Jeep.

Why the drag link flip? I realize it brings the connection for the drag link upwards at the steering knuckle, but is the only reason for this to use the factory pitman?

Last edited by DesertClimber; 01-13-2017 at 10:33 PM.
Old 01-13-2017, 07:53 PM
  #632  
JK Newbie

 
swizzle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: ID
Posts: 60
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

In the words of my teenager....OMG! What a great write-up. The JK world thanks you.
Old 01-14-2017, 06:47 AM
  #633  
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
Thread Starter
 
TheDirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southwest Reno, NV
Posts: 6,222
Received 363 Likes on 289 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DesertClimber
Yeah, we plan on wheeling it, but maybe not as hard as the older Jeep.

Why the drag link flip? I realize it brings the connection for the drag link upwards at the steering knuckle, but is the only reason for this to use the factory pitman?
It will raise the roll center of the jeep and make it more stable both on road and off while reducing axle shift during articulation and reduce bump steer.
Old 01-14-2017, 07:28 AM
  #634  
JK Newbie
 
DesertClimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheDirtman
It will raise the roll center of the jeep and make it more stable both on road and off while reducing axle shift during articulation and reduce bump steer.
I didn't realize staying with the stock pitman had an affect on roll center as well. Awesome, thanks!
Old 01-14-2017, 07:33 AM
  #635  
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
Thread Starter
 
TheDirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southwest Reno, NV
Posts: 6,222
Received 363 Likes on 289 Posts
Default

roll center its due to the height of the track bar but when you raise the track bar you need to raise the drag link to keep the two links parallel. Everything is connected.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:06 AM
  #636  
JK Junkie

 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DesertClimber
I didn't realize staying with the stock pitman had an affect on roll center as well. Awesome, thanks!
You said you already have a front axle side bracket. RC recently started running one and it looks to pretty stout. Previously they used a frame drop bracket which you do not want. So the good news you are all set as far as front roll center. To better geometry and take stress off the steering box thats where the drag link flip comes in. Source a factory pitman arm and a flipped DL. You will have to drill or ream the knuckle if using most flipped DL's. brands AEV, EVO are both RHD stock but come as a kit (you already have a track bar bracket) Synergy is nice because you can run either flipped or under the knuckle. Or SteerSmarts has 2 drag links that dont require drilling, the Yeti 26 (soon to replace AEV's RHD) and HD. The 26 looks similar to a stock RHD but stronger, does retain the pitman end joint. The HD is a complete drag link. Con is the price which is up there for a drag link $400. Cheapest option source a crown stock RHD dl, i think they run about $70 maybe less.
One last thing, do you run a rear axle side bracket?
Old 01-17-2017, 07:24 AM
  #637  
JK Newbie
 
DesertClimber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kjeeper10
You said you already have a front axle side bracket.

One last thing, do you run a rear axle side bracket?
What's interesting about the folks that did this lift, is they RAISED the front axle-side trackbar mount, but LOWERED the draglink connection with a drop pitman. It drives funky.

I got a factory pitman from a buddy, and the Synergy draglink has already showed up. It does have a front axle-side bracket by RC I'm guessing, but I'm changing it out with the Synergy to match it up. I plan to re-taper the knuckle arm. No biggie.

There was no rear axle side bracket which made the thing roll like a boat amplifying the crappy driving even more. I put the Synergy on for now. Sooo much better already!

Last edited by DesertClimber; 01-17-2017 at 07:27 AM.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:42 AM
  #638  
JK Junkie

 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DesertClimber
What's interesting about the folks that did this lift, is they RAISED the front axle-side trackbar mount, but LOWERED the draglink connection with a drop pitman. It drives funky. I got a factory pitman from a buddy, and the Synergy draglink has already showed up. It does have a front axle-side bracket by RC I'm guessing, but I'm changing it out with the Synergy to match it up. I plan to re-taper the knuckle arm. No biggie. There was no rear axle side bracket which made the thing roll like a boat amplifying the crappy driving even more. I put the Synergy on for now. Sooo much better already!
Bam so you are all set !!!!
Old 01-18-2017, 02:06 AM
  #639  
JK Enthusiast
 
lloydsmale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I went with a rubicon express 2.5 in lift and am running 305/70/17s ridge grapplers which are the same height as your 285/75/17s and the only place I rub is on the front air dam which could be easily trimmed. I'm going to remove it and install a skid plate so I haven't bothered. I'm running stock rims with 1.5 spacers.
Originally Posted by sitting duk
First off, thanks for sharing your knowledge on lifts. There's so much good info here. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. I do have a question, but I'm typing this on my phone, so it is hard to do a search in the thread.

I just bought tires, but still a little confused. On your recommendations, are the tire sizes (33,35,37) the actual size when mounted or advertised size?

I bought nitto ridge grapplers 285/75 17, which are considered 34s. Will replacing my 14/56 to 18/60 coils (netting about 1.5 in lift) and installing MCE flat fenders be enough to clear the tires?

Thanks in advance.
And has anyone tried that combo?
Old 01-18-2017, 06:27 AM
  #640  
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
Thread Starter
 
TheDirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southwest Reno, NV
Posts: 6,222
Received 363 Likes on 289 Posts
Default

Tire size is generic since they vary so much from manufacturer to manufacture. The coil swap really should not be needed with flat fenders and I would not even bother with them. Wheel back spacing will be more important then the coils.


Quick Reply: My thoughts on lifts



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:46 AM.