So my front driveshaft finally died on me. CV joint at the transfer case has no boot, clicking, and binds. So I pulled it off this weekend.

Was considering taking to driveshaft shop and have the joint rebuilt. Reasoning is that I've had it on there for 10k and no idea how much longer from previous owner.

But after reading about how cv joints don't do we'll at extreme angles I figured I'd look for an aftermarket shaft.

It will be for a 2010 2dr JK on 4" lift on 37" Toyo Mts. I think max droop for me is about 8" - eventually would like more but that's a long time from now. It's also my daily driver (less than 30mi/day).

What are things I should consider for this setup? e.g. length, pinion/caster angles, dbl cardan, 1310 vs 1350, maintenance, repairs while on trail, life expectancy given the previous factors

Anyone with similar setups?

 

Look up Tom Woods custom driveshafts, and his site will answer all your questions, and show how to measure for new shafts.

 

Tom Woods Driveshafts, they build to your application

 

Je Reel driveshafts, made in the USA.

35's and under 1310

37's and up 1350 is a general rule to go by..

 

Tom woods . But honestly we are all running shafts from different company's that back them with a Warranty .

They all do the same thing . Just grease it at every oil change and water crossing and you should be fine.


Sent from my i5 using just one thumb and tapatalk

 

Tom woods here on 12 jku zero problems with 4 inch lift.

 

I'm going with Tatton.

 

I've got Coast front and rear and other then a bad u-joint I haven't had any problems. But to be honest I don't think you could go wrong with JE Reel or Coast. The same goes for Tom Woods but I've heard that if you don't ask for Spicer U-joints you'll get an inferior u-joint from China.

 

Even from coast You have to specify Spicer.I did not know that.

 

I guess it doesn't matter. I love my j e reels. I beat the crap out of em.