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Playing around with my suspension again.

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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy
These shocks are $36 each and once I dial everything in I'll look at getting some better ones. Raising the lower mount will net you more droop but with that more droop if your spring is unseated you're not getting traction. With my old set up I was able to see how much the stock control arms could droop, so theoretically if I can find a spring with a long enough length and short enough coil bind length I could run some ridiculously long shocks. In Travis' pictures it looks like his tire is drooping far past mine, but when you take into the account I have more up travel and am using every bit of travel out of those 12.5" travel shocks, I have more available wheel travel. Again though I'm not taking anything away from his suspension, because obviously it works. I'm just trying to find the right combination of parts in order to get the most travel I can out of these coil springs.
I can't do more up travel because my tires stuff...so mine has to go down and if you go .larger tires you'll need to go down as well....I dropped my other springs completely out of the perches so I went longer
prings.

As mearz says coil overs at this point past the 12" mark or relocate the spring mounts so instead of a massive height it retains the lift and doesn't coil bind...
Mine is as dialed as its gonna get without ORI or coilovers at this point....

My droop is past my LONG springs, my compression stuffs 37s and will need to adjust down more with 40s...my bumps are spot on.
I've cycled my old race trucks and Prerunners so many times building and fixing desert destruction I've gotten familiar with what to look for...

The balance on a jeep is pretty much 12" with 4" lift and 37" tires at which point other suspension comes into play. Springs are only so long and new seats need to be addressed at which point coilovers/ORI are a better option.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BRUT4CE

I can't do more up travel because my tires stuff...so mine has to go down and if you go .larger tires you'll need to go down as well....I dropped my other springs completely out of the perches so I went longer
prings.

As mearz says coil overs at this point past the 12" mark or relocate the spring mounts so instead of a massive height it retains the lift and doesn't coil bind...
Mine is as dialed as its gonna get without ORI or coilovers at this point....

My droop is past my LONG springs, my compression stuffs 37s and will need to adjust down more with 40s...my bumps are spot on.
I've cycled my old race trucks and Prerunners so many times building and fixing desert destruction I've gotten familiar with what to look for...

The balance on a jeep is pretty much 12" with 4" lift and 37" tires at which point other suspension comes into play. Springs are only so long and new seats need to be addressed at which point coilovers/ORI are a better option.
Well that's cool with what you've found but I'm trying this a different way. But I'll be sure to post up if it goes good or bad. But I haven't seen anyone try this yet, and so far so good for me. But I will definitely take your advice and insight on this suspension so I can fine tune it more. Thanks for sharing all that knowledge up in your noggin' lol
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:16 AM
  #23  
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In my opinion going to 14 coilovers is next after 12" i will have to fit a 21 ish collapsed shock instead if 17. i will try 1.5 lower mount and 2.5 upper. But seem as im stuffing to fender i will have to trim my front fenders more and maybe the body to use the full travel... I will gain up travel and droop. That should also let me have a good ride height

Last edited by Maertz; Jul 18, 2013 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy
Well that's cool with what you've found but I'm trying this a different way. But I'll be sure to post up if it goes good or bad. But I haven't seen anyone try this yet, and so far so good for me. But I will definitely take your advice and insight on this suspension so I can fine tune it more. Thanks for sharing all that knowledge up in your noggin' lol

Not telling you how to do things but just things to make sure and watch for....the springs can handle a fair bit of abuse especially quality springs but just a thought....

The issue your gonna have is the spring can only compress so much and the closer it comes to coil bind it is starting to exceed its cyclic properties....in order to get a longer spring you reduce the compressed length even with smaller wound coils because they make up for that in quantity...

Measure your coils (actuall windings) and measure and then measure your collapsed length if the coils make sure your not too close to those numbers....coils can only go so far so many times...not my thoughts just the way it is...

Last edited by BRUT4CE; Jul 18, 2013 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 02:37 PM
  #25  
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Are you running aftermarket driveshafts?
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JKphotoshoot
Are you running aftermarket driveshafts?
Negative still factory driveshafts. Once the front goes out I'll replace it, but it could be awhile.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BRUT4CE

Not telling you how to do things but just things to make sure and watch for....the springs can handle a fair bit of abuse especially quality springs but just a thought....

The issue your gonna have is the spring can only compress so much and the closer it comes to coil bind it is starting to exceed its cyclic properties....in order to get a longer spring you reduce the compressed length even with smaller wound coils because they make up for that in quantity...

Measure your coils (actuall windings) and measure and then measure your collapsed length if the coils make sure your not too close to those numbers....coils can only go so far so many times...not my thoughts just the way it is...
That's why I've been looking closely at the dual rate springs offered by Metal cloak and Currie. The bottom set of coils has a large space between the windings and the tops sit in the upper coil bucket until your suspension starts to droop. I think progressive springs aren't really right for my application.

Edit: waiting on a reply back from metal cloak on their compressed spring length. I'll measure from coil bucket to coil bucket with a front tire fully stuffed to see what the length is. On their website it says 7" solid height. Not sure if that's the whole spring compressed or not.

Also with their 6-pack shocks with 16 inches of travel the compressed height is 15" which should without a doubt over compress all of these springs from what you're saying. Especially considering their mounts lower the upper by 1.5". Again I'm not saying you're wrong or trying to go against what you say. I'm just trying to get the most possible travel and also keep my springs seated at all times. Its a lot of leg work, but I'm still hoping it will pay off.

Last edited by iwaxmyjimmy; Jul 18, 2013 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #28  
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Just went out to my jeep and measured from coil bucket to coil bucket, 14". From bump stop to bump stop is 5 1/2", which is perfect for my up travel. And if metal cloak springs are a 7" solid height that would only bring them down to 8 1/2" or so inches. But I will be more than likely running a 1" bump stop, to run 14" travel shocks, so effectively they would be 9 1/2" compressed. Don't know if that would over compress them or not. Still waiting to hear back from metal cloak though. Am I missing anything? Not being a smart ass I'm actually wondering.

Last edited by iwaxmyjimmy; Jul 18, 2013 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy
Negative still factory driveshafts. Once the front goes out I'll replace it, but it could be awhile.
I am running 12 inch travel shock, using all the travel I can kill a factory driveshaft on the first trail I hit. Mine would pinch the metal band and split the boot.
This was where I was killing them.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JKphotoshoot

I am running 12 inch travel shock, using all the travel I can kill a factory driveshaft on the first trail I hit. Mine would pinch the metal band and split the boot.
This was where I was killing them.
Even with my old setup where the springs would unload easy as hell I never had that happen lol. Granted the toughest trail I have done is Calico in California, and I didn't do the gate keeper there bc I don't have the tires for it nor skids under mine yet. Hopefully that will change fairly soon.
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