Just something to keep a eye on. That's was a 2 hr old 3rd front driveshaft in a row. Also Once that grease starts flinging out they don't last long. I grabbed a few extra used fronts for spares and should have just went ahead and upgraded, which I finally did.
The rear has been ok on my 4 dr.
I need to upgrade my crossmember skid also. My tatton still hits on the trimmed crossmember keeping me from getting about 3 more inches of droop on the driver side.

Flex is looking good!!

 

Here are those pics. When i go longer shock i will weld them on top of the tubing more so. I s have some cleanup to do...

 

I picked up some 1x2 rectangle tubing today. Hopefully I can do something similar.


Btw I think the same asshole welds my stuff for me, lol.

 

A full cross member won't work but I could just build brackets coning off the frame and gusset them. Gusset might be over kill since they aren't load bearing. I need to pull the muffler and look to see how much room I have to work with.

 

Lol I got 2 that look like that right now 1 is on the jeep....yes first trail killed it....got 3 spares sitting in garage....my rear looks the same. Spun grease all over down there...looks like spots and not streaks...

And went and maxxed it out today....

And I was wrong I still need to drop the lower mounts down more....I put the tire into the wheel well which is the same height as the original inside line....it stuffed before maxxing out.

 

Lower mounts on which end?

 

Back....it stuffed and went 1/2"+ into tread before the tread stopped it...lol I really thought I had it dialed I knew I was close....I only raised the rear lowers 1.5" so now I get to cut em off and add another inch up....

The rear driveshaft is over maxed and the front I've aced 2... its time for aftermarket but I'll do that once I stretch...Im glad he brought it up it is a good thing to keep an eye on.....they make a nasty noise when they Max and rip...mine sounded worse than what it was...

 

Can't trim it anymore? And yeah I'm surprised I haven't had anything going on with mine. With only 32s and in calico I end up using a lot of my suspension travel. Weird lol. Then again I know you wheel a lot tough things than I do Travis. I need to hurry up and get 35s so I can play on the big rocks.

 

Lol you've crossed into obsession territory lmao...don't matter wheel size or trail now you are in it with me and several others to find the happy medium in suspension...lol

We think we are their and then something comes up we address it think we are good then the thought "I need more" lol then the brain storming hits....and again we are off....

So being that we are both hammering it out I'll be sure to drop any issues I run into and like wise...

When you run bigger tires your mounts will drop down up top to push your geometry down for tire clearance up top...then the drive shafts start to get worked as do the joints on arms and then brake lines you thought were long enough aren't or close to Max...oh and abs lines are too short on mine I've jacked the mounts up to accommodate it but its about time to splice in....good news is your well versed and will be a pretty simple swap....

 

Oh I realized I was obsessive in that other thread I starting thinking of how I really need to keep my spring from unseating lol Well that and taking a sawzall and cutoff wheel to the top of my front shock mounts lol. My Front brake hoses are plenty long, bought the crown +6 hoses a while back ($130 shipped from northridge 4x4, includes front and rear). Also for the abs sensors, they plug into the harness just behind the shock mounts. What I did was unplug them there pull the wire through the inner C and then go over top of it and zip tie it to the top of the knuckle. And also the plug behind the shock mount you can take it off the clip and move it to where the hardline connects to the brake hoses.

Even when I go to 35s, I plan on just trimming the fenders instead of using bump stops. I probably wont have fender flares up front, and out back I was trying to come up with a design for a full corner armor. Use .120 sheet metal for it to be easy to bend around the tail lights and then another piece that covers the 1/4 panel. At the sharp part of the corner, butt weld them together and use some .120 wall angle iron an try and flatten it some to match the angle and cover the seem and provide a type of gusset. Ill trim the pinch seam in the wheel well as far as possible and re-weld it up. I think I could get 35s to clear with minimal issues.... well more like we will see. lol