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Pro Rock 44

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by sdhexpert
One major compliant I have with mine ....

I bought the Ultimate version with 1/2" tubes and caster set for 4" lifts ..... "These were specifically configured for those running 4" and greater lifts" <from dynatrac> ..... why then is the track bar bracket in the stock location? Massive bump steer with my installation, have to cut off the stock one and buy another vendors raised track bar bracket, weld on etc. to eliminate the bump steer ..... imo dynatrac should install an adjustable bracket in the beginning.

Otherwise very beefy housing and should take all but the most extreme abuse.

Thanks David@Northridge!
-mm
Nearly every lift kit sold has a bracket unique to that kit for track bar relocation. if we supplied a raised bracket, which we have consdered many times, it still wouldn't work with all applications.

We're glad you got your steering set up right and appreciate your support.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
Nearly every lift kit sold has a bracket unique to that kit for track bar relocation. if we supplied a raised bracket, which we have consdered many times, it still wouldn't work with all applications.

We're glad you got your steering set up right and appreciate your support.
My lift kit did not come w/ a bracket (Franken lift inc.). Further the brackets that I have seen with most of the lifts are bolt on, probably not the strongest thing to do. Why couldn't you do something like the Teraflex rear housings that have brackets with different mounting positions?
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #13  
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They're $$$ but when I walk up to it and see that PR44 front end with the bright orange knuckles and RCV's I don't worry so much about rolling on 37's. I didn't like cutting the stock trackbar bracket off and having a different one welded on either but I got over it.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK
They're $$$ but when I walk up to it and see that PR44 front end with the bright orange knuckles and RCV's I don't worry so much about rolling on 37's. I didn't like cutting the stock trackbar bracket off and having a different one welded on either but I got over it.
No question I'm over it, mine will be pr44/reid knuckles/como axles/and CURRECTLYNC steering. My new brackets will be here next week and I will get them welded on. I'm only saying that the axle housing they (dynatrac) is selling is aimed at guys running 4" and greater lifts ..... as a minimum provide a trackbar bracket that has correct mounting for a 3" to 5" lift. (or atleast note on the website that you will need to buy and install after you buy the $2k+ housing).
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:42 PM
  #15  
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I am happy with mine so far though I wish there was a drain plug, makes changing the fluid a little easier (no mess)... Hopefully there will be a manual hub option in the future (without a need to change the bolt pattern) as well.

i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jmolfino
I am happy with mine so far though I wish there was a drain plug, makes changing the fluid a little easier (no mess)... Hopefully there will be a manual hub option in the future (without a need to change the bolt pattern) as well.

i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
What caster / pinion angle did you end up with?
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #17  
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I am also considering upgrading my stock front Rubi axle with the Pro Rock 44 heavy duty axle tube (0.50"). I'm also going to regear. It's my uderstanding that many of the internals of the Rubi will be reused. How does the original Rubi axle compare to an upgraded and/or chrome moly axle? Where is the weak spot in the oringinal Rubi axle assembly? Does it make sense to eliminate these weak spots by "not using" some of the original Rubi guts?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 02:11 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mvbeggs
I am also considering upgrading my stock front Rubi axle with the Pro Rock 44 heavy duty axle tube (0.50"). I'm also going to regear. It's my uderstanding that many of the internals of the Rubi will be reused. How does the original Rubi axle compare to an upgraded and/or chrome moly axle? Where is the weak spot in the oringinal Rubi axle assembly? Does it make sense to eliminate these weak spots by "not using" some of the original Rubi guts?

Thanks.
Think it all depends on how much skinny pedal you use and how big of tires you plan to run.
Dynatrac told me that the pr44 would be good to 37's if you were not crazy w/the pedal. That did include como axles.
When I changed over I used all the internals (I already had 5.13 gears) my already replaced como axles. Bought new knuckes (reid), tie rod and drag links (currie).
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by sdhexpert
What caster / pinion angle did you end up with?
I am still trying to dial this in. It looks like i will need adjustable upper control arms along with my lowers to get the pinion angle where it needs to be (the pinion angle is not currently +/-1 degree, which is my goal). With the additional castor built into the housing, i should be able to meet my goal of dialing in the pinion angle while maintaing factory castor, i'l let you know how it turns out... With the factory housing, i was set around 4 degrees of castor and the pinion angle was somewhere around 4-6 degrees...
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 02:28 PM
  #20  
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With the stock axle there can be 6 deg neg castor with o deg pinion angle. With the extreme which has a 10 deg split you can have your 6 deg neg castor but pinion pointed up 4 deg.
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