Pro Rock 44
One major compliant I have with mine ....
I bought the Ultimate version with 1/2" tubes and caster set for 4" lifts ..... "These were specifically configured for those running 4" and greater lifts" <from dynatrac> ..... why then is the track bar bracket in the stock location? Massive bump steer with my installation, have to cut off the stock one and buy another vendors raised track bar bracket, weld on etc. to eliminate the bump steer ..... imo dynatrac should install an adjustable bracket in the beginning.
Otherwise very beefy housing and should take all but the most extreme abuse.
Thanks David@Northridge!
-mm
I bought the Ultimate version with 1/2" tubes and caster set for 4" lifts ..... "These were specifically configured for those running 4" and greater lifts" <from dynatrac> ..... why then is the track bar bracket in the stock location? Massive bump steer with my installation, have to cut off the stock one and buy another vendors raised track bar bracket, weld on etc. to eliminate the bump steer ..... imo dynatrac should install an adjustable bracket in the beginning.
Otherwise very beefy housing and should take all but the most extreme abuse.
Thanks David@Northridge!
-mm
We're glad you got your steering set up right and appreciate your support.
Nearly every lift kit sold has a bracket unique to that kit for track bar relocation. if we supplied a raised bracket, which we have consdered many times, it still wouldn't work with all applications.
We're glad you got your steering set up right and appreciate your support.
We're glad you got your steering set up right and appreciate your support.

They're $$$ but when I walk up to it and see that PR44 front end with the bright orange knuckles and RCV's I don't worry so much about rolling on 37's. I didn't like cutting the stock trackbar bracket off and having a different one welded on either but I got over it.
They're $$$ but when I walk up to it and see that PR44 front end with the bright orange knuckles and RCV's I don't worry so much about rolling on 37's. I didn't like cutting the stock trackbar bracket off and having a different one welded on either but I got over it.
I am happy with mine so far though I wish there was a drain plug, makes changing the fluid a little easier (no mess)... Hopefully there will be a manual hub option in the future (without a need to change the bolt pattern) as well.
i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
I am happy with mine so far though I wish there was a drain plug, makes changing the fluid a little easier (no mess)... Hopefully there will be a manual hub option in the future (without a need to change the bolt pattern) as well.
i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
i have the Unlimited version with the 1/2" wall axle tubes and pro steer ball joints. I also added the EVO control arm skids. Having the extra castor was key since i wanted to dial in my pinion angle while maintaining greater than factory castor...
I am also considering upgrading my stock front Rubi axle with the Pro Rock 44 heavy duty axle tube (0.50"). I'm also going to regear. It's my uderstanding that many of the internals of the Rubi will be reused. How does the original Rubi axle compare to an upgraded and/or chrome moly axle? Where is the weak spot in the oringinal Rubi axle assembly? Does it make sense to eliminate these weak spots by "not using" some of the original Rubi guts?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I am also considering upgrading my stock front Rubi axle with the Pro Rock 44 heavy duty axle tube (0.50"). I'm also going to regear. It's my uderstanding that many of the internals of the Rubi will be reused. How does the original Rubi axle compare to an upgraded and/or chrome moly axle? Where is the weak spot in the oringinal Rubi axle assembly? Does it make sense to eliminate these weak spots by "not using" some of the original Rubi guts?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Dynatrac told me that the pr44 would be good to 37's if you were not crazy w/the pedal. That did include como axles.
When I changed over I used all the internals (I already had 5.13 gears) my already replaced como axles. Bought new knuckes (reid), tie rod and drag links (currie).
I am still trying to dial this in. It looks like i will need adjustable upper control arms along with my lowers to get the pinion angle where it needs to be (the pinion angle is not currently +/-1 degree, which is my goal). With the additional castor built into the housing, i should be able to meet my goal of dialing in the pinion angle while maintaing factory castor, i'l let you know how it turns out... With the factory housing, i was set around 4 degrees of castor and the pinion angle was somewhere around 4-6 degrees...


