Question about JK Geometry Correction Front Control Arm Drop Brackets
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
From: Nokesville, Va
The "grade 8" bolt upgrade isn't about bolt strength. It has everything to do with the factory bolts having less of a shoulder and thus threads protruding into and acting like a saw on mounting brackets, etc creating extra clearance between the bolt and bracket. In addition, the stock bolts are also a bit smaller than the SAE bolts in the kit which creates even more opportunity for components to move around especially if they've ever been loose in the past. (I've seen torque values not met right from the factory.) SO, to say flat out say it's a waste of money or time is ignorant. Will it help your situation? Maybe, maybe not depending on the condition of your rig as it applies here, but it certainly cures a potentially unfavorable condition down the road or stops the worsening of one in progress already. Just because it alone didn't cure someone else's issue doesn't mean it didn't stop degradation for them now and in the future. You didn't mention (nor has anyone else) your toe setting. Not enough toe-in can cause your condition and if you're running larger tires, you may even want to run a bit more than stock. Your caster numbers are just within spec but not desirable for a tighter feeling steering. Even another 1 degree would be an improvement for you but you'll either need drop brackets, or control arms to get that. At least you'll have the adjustability for the future in place. The opinions on which is already well underway. Cam bolts are also an option but I would stay away from that. In addition, should you or anyone else opt to go with the bolt upgrade, one thing that is often missed but I would highly suggest would be Teraflex's Flexarm washer kit to keep the new bolts centered in the brackets.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Lake City, FL
A control arm cam bolt kit is a low cost solution for lightly lifted Jeeps. It will make the caster adjustable. There is a knockout for it built into the axle.
http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Je...ml#.VJxQ9VTAIE
They also sell the knockout tool.
http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Je...ml#.VJxQ9VTAIE
They also sell the knockout tool.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Lake City, FL
It is generally something to avoid if you can. If the Jeep isn't high enough for geo correction brackets and the budget doesn't support control arms, then it's the only low cost solution. They work fine until later when you want to increase the lift or upgrade the control arms. There are ways to reverse the knockout but many who have been there just wish they had left them alone and bought control arms in the first place.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 14,800
Likes: 374
From: Midwest City, OK
OP wrote he doesn't go off road. "100% city/highway." In that case, camber bolts would be okay. A future owner (or if OP changes his mind) might regret that decision when they vibrate loose during some off-road adventure, however.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Ft Myers, FL
The "grade 8" bolt upgrade isn't about bolt strength. It has everything to do with the factory bolts having less of a shoulder and thus threads protruding into and acting like a saw on mounting brackets, etc creating extra clearance between the bolt and bracket. In addition, the stock bolts are also a bit smaller than the SAE bolts in the kit which creates even more opportunity for components to move around especially if they've ever been loose in the past. (I've seen torque values not met right from the factory.)
SO, to say flat out say it's a waste of money or time is ignorant. Will it help your situation? Maybe, maybe not depending on the condition of your rig as it applies here, but it certainly cures a potentially unfavorable condition down the road or stops the worsening of one in progress already. Just because it alone didn't cure someone else's issue doesn't mean it didn't stop degradation for them now and in the future.
You didn't mention (nor has anyone else) your toe setting. Not enough toe-in can cause your condition and if you're running larger tires, you may even want to run a bit more than stock.
Your caster numbers are just within spec but not desirable for a tighter feeling steering. Even another 1 degree would be an improvement for you but you'll either need drop brackets, or control arms to get that. At least you'll have the adjustability for the future in place. The opinions on which is already well underway. Cam bolts are also an option but I would stay away from that.
In addition, should you or anyone else opt to go with the bolt upgrade, one thing that is often missed but I would highly suggest would be Teraflex's Flexarm washer kit to keep the new bolts centered in the brackets.
SO, to say flat out say it's a waste of money or time is ignorant. Will it help your situation? Maybe, maybe not depending on the condition of your rig as it applies here, but it certainly cures a potentially unfavorable condition down the road or stops the worsening of one in progress already. Just because it alone didn't cure someone else's issue doesn't mean it didn't stop degradation for them now and in the future.
You didn't mention (nor has anyone else) your toe setting. Not enough toe-in can cause your condition and if you're running larger tires, you may even want to run a bit more than stock.
Your caster numbers are just within spec but not desirable for a tighter feeling steering. Even another 1 degree would be an improvement for you but you'll either need drop brackets, or control arms to get that. At least you'll have the adjustability for the future in place. The opinions on which is already well underway. Cam bolts are also an option but I would stay away from that.
In addition, should you or anyone else opt to go with the bolt upgrade, one thing that is often missed but I would highly suggest would be Teraflex's Flexarm washer kit to keep the new bolts centered in the brackets.
Thank you for the input on the bolt kit, something to consider.
My Toe is .20 toe in.
Update
I found some stock JK X black shocks and springs locally for $40, rear springs are 55's and the front end in 12 and 13(I believe I originally had 13/14 up front before I put the 18/59's on). I put the X shocks on to see if that would help and for me the ride improved, I'm going to swap the springs this weekend and install a quality 2.5" lift when I can afford to do so properly. I guess my jeep is too light for the stiffer springs and shocks, Or I'm just getting old~!
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Ft Myers, FL
update
Ok so i looked under the hood and grabbed my steering shaft and found the bushing in the firewall came out and the shaft can be moved freely by hand. How can i fix this? Cant post my video on my phone but the shaft moves around the hole in the firewall like youre waving a hotdog in a hallway!
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Ft Myers, FL
I tapped the hard plastic bushing with a hammer and punch and moved backed to the firewall abou 1/2 inch. Can still move the shaft around freely but steering feels tighter. Is movement normal? Feels much better but want to make sure its set properly
