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Question for people with 35s

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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #31  
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From: Canfield ohio
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Originally Posted by Maniacal
This is a diagram for the new 3.6

<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=411270"/>
That is what I needed. To see where I would be at now with 4.10 gearing on 33s but also when I move up to 35s. Thanks.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 03:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jbry311
Damn, now I'm second guessing 35's. right now my '12 manual with 3.21 gears gets 18.5 city and 21.5 highway. Not sure it's worth losing 4 or 5 mpg.
The upgrade dilemma in a nut shell. Full stock is the only way to have ~20 mpg in a moving box on wheels. Any bolt on item, even tiny lights on the A pillar will cause drag, reducing mpg. Removing the plastic air dam is a drop in mpg. Going from street biased stock tires to a more aggressive tread in the same size increases rolling resistance: you guessed it, less mpg. Spending thousands in gears, forced induction will never bring it back to what was from the factory. What we all want is huge torque and high mpg. Right now, that's a Hemi V8. ( I'd rather have that Hemi in a light car) When will Jeep give us a diesel? Then we'll have power and efficiency. ( and the fuel will get us away from oil )
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #33  
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2013 4dr sport 3.73 Auto
35" toyo M/T 3" BDS lift
16-17 city
18-20 highway
I only saw a drop of 1-2 mpg
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:03 PM
  #34  
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From: Lake tapps, Wa
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I have a 2007 with 35" mtz tires and 4.88 gears and I get 15-18 city and 18-20 on the highway. I live in Wa so mountain passes are a big deal I had 4.10 but it didn't do the job when heading up the pass at all now that I have the 4.88s the performance is amazing!
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #35  
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From: Lake tapps, Wa
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Originally Posted by BlackRockBurner

The upgrade dilemma in a nut shell. Full stock is the only way to have ~20 mpg in a moving box on wheels. Any bolt on item, even tiny lights on the A pillar will cause drag, reducing mpg. Removing the plastic air dam is a drop in mpg. Going from street biased stock tires to a more aggressive tread in the same size increases rolling resistance: you guessed it, less mpg. Spending thousands in gears, forced induction will never bring it back to what was from the factory. What we all want is huge torque and high mpg. Right now, that's a Hemi V8. ( I'd rather have that Hemi in a light car) When will Jeep give us a diesel? Then we'll have power and efficiency. ( and the fuel will get us away from oil )
Me and my uncle and buddy were talking about the diesel the other day apparently they are available in Europe? So why can't we have em here damn EPA!
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #36  
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16-17 mpg hand calc'd, 4.56 w/ 35s
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #37  
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2012 JK Rubi 2 door auto. 35 x 12.50 Procomp MTs (really are 34s, i measured....) . 4:10 gears. Procal adjusted. 14.5-15.5 mpg (city/hwy).

2.5 inch terraflex coil lift, bushwhacked flatties, EVO protek skids, AEV rear bumper with tire carrier and hi lift jack mount, LoD rock sliders, LoD armor lite stubby front bumper with Shittybuilt XRC8 wench & steel cable. Only giving you this info so you can see impact of added weight and wind drag due to loss of aerodynamics from lift and added crap. .
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #38  
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2012, Auto, 4.10s bumpers and winch and metal skid plate. 4 door rubi. Pretty heavy.

18-18.5 mpg on highways 60 or below.

Above 65 and/or mountains, 16.5 mpg.

tire psi 32*

And I go easy on the throttle and try to keep it in ECO.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #39  
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4.10's 14-16 depending on how I'm driving
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #40  
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From: Apex, NC
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Originally Posted by Edge Hawk
2012, Auto, 4.10s bumpers and winch and metal skid plate. 4 door rubi. Pretty heavy.

18-18.5 mpg on highways 60 or below.

Above 65 and/or mountains, 16.5 mpg.

tire psi 32*

And I go easy on the throttle and try to keep it in ECO.

Have you adjusted your speedo with a pro cal? .....because damn dude, thats killer gas mileage......
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