Wiring harness $120 switches $30

 

I just talked to them and got a part number, but it doesn't come up on their website. Mine works fine so I probably wouldn't change it now anyway, but I would like to know if it looks just like the factory switches and how it functions. I don't see how a factory switch and harness would even work without reprogramming the computer. Let us know.

 

You already found out what I know. I was talking to the merchandising buyer at 4wd he told me about it.


I just intalled a Mopar E-disco. it came with the factory harness, and factory switch. the switch is the exact same as the rubicons. I have a the locker switch as well. From what I understood he said I could use the switch to control factory lockers, All I need was to buy the harness for the axles,

I'm guessing its the same one and the sales person is in error, I could be wrong.

 

Also, I went to the dealer and they flashed the computer, its was $35.00 the sway bar icon lights up in the dash. sway bar works.

 

This is wrong info. The parts you will get from 4WDH are MOPAR parts for the RUBICON model. It does not have independent switches.

Swith panel is MOPAR p/n 04602508AE

The wiring harness from MOPAR is p/n P56055357AF. It is the complete chassis wiring harness.

Bob

 

Ok, let me clear up this statement error.

This is one switch that replaces the entire switch panel at the bottom of your dash. It is a factory style hookup!

If you wanted to independently control the lockers, this would require the customer figuring out how to wire them to work independently. I don’t think it would be that hard, but I have no idea how to do it.

Thanks Guys!

4WDH

 

The factory switch is rock up, rock down. Personally I think it is confusing. Since the switch is momentary, there is no way to tell the intent of the last press. The lights on the dash blink when you engage or disengage. Poke at the switch a few times and you don't know what it is doing.

Why you would want it to work the "factory way" is beyond me. The lockers will only work in 4low. If you go too fast they unlock, but this is not generally possible in 4 low. They will not work at all in 4high.

The only advantage to using the stock system is that there are switch contacts to tell the if the locker has actually done what you told it to do (lock or unlock). In the stock case when you toggle the rear "on" (for example) the locker light blinks at first. Then when the locker engages (and the switch in the locker closes) the locker light stays on solid. Turning off the locker is the same. The front locker behaves the same.

Since these contacts are in the locker, you can wire this system yourself. Personally I suggest that you do. The lockers do not always engage or disengage immediately. To save wear and tear on the locking mechanism I like to switch them and wait for the lights to go out so I know they are not switching under heavy load. With manual switches you can see the intent, and a light on the locking mechanism switch will tell you your switch position matches what the locker has done.

I am not aware of the failure mode of these lockers, but I have seen a handful of complaints of "it won't unlock/lock". Most dealers seem clueless about how to fix these, so after a failed repair most warranty claims end in a new housing. Apparently there is an internal part that is easy to break on disassembly, so I suspect this starts the process. I suspect that loaded locking and unlocking may contribute to the failures.

I hope these axle swaps work out for you guys. I still think the long term durability is in question for this new locker. I guess you can always upgrade in a few years if it blows up I suppose.

 

I'm still not clear on this. Do you mean that the switch you supply replaces the existing module that includes the ESP control, the hazard light switch, etc.? Or is it just am OEM styled switch that looks like it belongs?

Thanks for your input. A note here when this is listed on your website would be helpful.

SV

 

pics and writeup wpuld be nice, I also have the axle and im scratching my head on how to wire.

 

thread bump