It may not. A lower ride height would help or as dirt said caster corrected axle or rotate your c's. Out of curiosity was it ever fine or is this new? If it was fine before could be worn bushings or parts to a degree. Could also try offset bjs to regain caster. Thats what im running on mine.

 

No, it actually rode ok (Bilstiens ride a little rough, tires are load D at 25lbs). I had the Dealership do the lift before I picked it up so everything was brand new (almost 10k miles on it now). The steering has REALLY deteriorated the last 3k miles. After selling my last two JKs I am keeping this one long term so I want to upgrade very single component from Stock. I really want to start wheeling this so I want a solid suspension.

So if Im Understanding correctly, both you and Dirtman are saying to really have the Geometry at this ride height correct, I need a new housing, like a Pro rock 44 or 60? Im not sure what rotaing the C's means? What does offset bjs to regain caster mean?


You would think after owning 3 lifted JK'S I would know this shi$? I guess the wife has been right all these years, I am a dumbass!!!!!!!!!

 

The c's are on the axle where you would put c gussets. The ball joints go the knuckle and the c's holding them on. When you adjust your arms you rotate the whole axle c's included. If you were to have someone rotate just the "c's you castor would change and leave your pinion angle alone so to speak. Also adjustable bjs normally used for camber can be used for caster. Aftermarket axles the c's are rotated better. If it was fine before maybe the trackbar, control arm,or other bushings are shot. I think you said bjs are fine, id also check unit bearings. Is the toe in and such unchanged? If someones steering the wheel while you look at all this you may see alot of bushing play or similar.

 

Ok, thank you for that explanation, now I am educated! He tested the Ball Joints and there was just a tiny bit of movement, so he said they had plenty of life left. Im not sure on the Toe, I am going to make sure to get a print out of the Aligment setting so I can see where I finish up. I appreciate the help and knowledge, so valuable!

 

A little play in bjs is no good man. I don't remember the spec but its in the low thousandths i believe to be ok...

 

He jacked up the tire and got a crow bar to check movement. I didtn see any movement at all while he was moving them, he said there is a tiny, tiny bit but that he wasnt worried. I am actually getting in Dyna track ball joints when I do my axles in the next couple of months, so I will adress that as well.

One question I forgot to ask-

Can I keep the AEV drop brackets when I add the Synergy LCA's or do I need to get rid of them?

 

You will get rid of them, along with your factory body side control arm mounts will be cut off. There will be no need for the drop brackets with a long arm.

 

Shouldn't be a problem using them as long as synergies arms go short or long enough to get you caster to a happy medium. Ive never used the personal on my rig and been awhile since ive seen them on a rig i cant remember if they shorten or lengthen the mounting point

 

Cool, thank man

 

If rorating C's you would also cut off all the brackets and relocate them where they need to go once you pinion angle is set. This is not something that is done by many.