Thats a good question for RIPP.

 

I meant that they do it in the video which makes it a non comparison. filtered and unfiltered. There has to be a better way than that goober lookin' filter they have at the top. Keep the filter under the hood. This is the only thing holding me back from getting the RIPP.

 

Whoa. I see what's going on here. I thought the last video (Dynatrac's--?) had the ram air snorkel fitted--not certain how the air was filtered. RIPP needs to design the filter to fit under the hood and make it compatible with the AEV ram air filter to take advantage of air induction at speed. I'll bet if they run a dyno test simulating air blowing by the ram air intake at speeds consistent with sixth gear and the RPMs on the test apparatus that their results will be remarkably better.

 

Whoa. I see what's going on here. I thought the last video (Dynatrac's--?) had the ram air snorkel fitted--not certain how the air was filtered. RIPP needs to design the filter to fit under the hood and make it compatible with the AEV ram air filter to take advantage of air induction at speed. I'll bet if they run a dyno test simulating air blowing by the ram air intake at speeds consistent with sixth gear and the RPMs on the test apparatus (70 MPH ≈ 3000 RPM) that their results will be remarkably better.

 

Hi ChrisLe,

Thanks very much for your tips, very helpful! I'll be installing mine as soon as RIPP mails it to me - ordered on 4/8.

I like the idea of not cutting the heater hose, but I'm concerned about long-term rubbing on the bracket and might re-enforce the area rubbing with another piece of hose wrapped around it with zip ties.

Questions - how far did you have to bend the EGR tube? I really don't want to unbolt the bottom part, but I'm concerned about potentially breaking the thing. Is there a gasket on the top part of the tube that should be replaced?

Thanks,
CM

 

How many tanks have you run through it?
What improvements have you seen?

Can't wait to get mine on.

 

Good luck with the install. You will love it.

I took a piece of rubber brake line, sliced it lengthwise and placed it on the SC mount to act as a buffer so the heater hose doesn't rub up against the mount.

I didn't bend it as much as I just had a friend gently pull on it just enough to clear the tube so that I was able to remove the upper manifold. Just be sure to also remove the clamp/bolt located at the mid-point of the egr tube that secures the tube to the lower manifold to give you more play. You'll see exactly what I mean when you read the install instructions.

 

Wish I would have thought of that! Removing those 2 screws was a royal PITA.

I didnt cut my hose either. I just routed it up around the oil cap.

 

Thanks again ChrisLe (and others) for the Tips and Tricks. Big huge thanks to RIPP for an awesome kit!

Got the SuperCharger GEN2 installed on Saturday, and have a few additional tips for y'all to consider:

The install definitely goes faster/smoother by having a friend or two. Having several pairs of hands and another set of eyes to confirm stuff made a big difference.

With my Rock Hard Bumper and winch, there was no way to pull off the plastic grill without taking off the bumper. 8 bolts off and removing the winch power took about 5 minutes to get the bumper off.

As we removed the upper plenum, my buddy grabbed the plenum while I bent the EGR tube - more up than away from the engine as I didn't want to mess up the gasket on the bottom side.

For the heater hose, I didn't cut it or reroute it - we just used some rubber tubing on the parts that were rubbing the SC bracket and zip-tied it on. I'll check for wear occasionally and replace as necessary.

In RIPPs instructions, there are a few pictures of the Intercooler install. The first one showing the L-brackets mounted to the top of the frame are correct. There are two other pictures showing the IC mounted on the bottom of the frame, which is not correct.

When installing the SC piping, absolutely make sure you start the piping on the passenger side. With multiple pairs of hands we were trying to do both sides at the same time, which initially sped things up but as we were getting the pipes all connected on the engine side, wouldn't line up no matter what.

When re-installing the temperature sensor, use a bit of lube and slowly push and twist to get the sensor into the grommet. If you push too hard the grommet falls into the piping I held the grommet with needle nose pliers while my buddy pushed it in so we didn't have a repeat forehead slap.

Once we were all done and triple-checked everything, we fired it up and took it out for a spin. Totally awesome, no errors and ran great!!

Got back to the garage to pack up everything. When I started the Jeep again, it ran rough, and threw a P0129 code - Low Barometric pressure. Checked a few things then decided to rotate the temperature sensor 90 degrees. Cleared the code and restarted, ran much smoother and didn't throw it again. That was a stressful few moments with an easy fix.

I've only put about 60 miles on since the install, and loving every minute!

CM5280

 

I am SOOOOOOO Jealous !!!

Enjoy it to the max