I have a 2.5" with stock flares 3/4" spacers and 37s I rub all day. I like the stock fender look and am moving to a 3.5". Plus if I ever want to run 40s I can do flats with the 3.5" and do it. Yes it's expensive but to me it's what I want. Oh and an extra inch of ground clearance is always good. Trust me my skids are pretty messed up.

 

Oh op something that is pretty good that comes with the X factor is that you get both track bars. I'd get the X factor all day man

 

Ok, this is exactly my point. Explain to me how adding an inch of lift will help tire rub?

The shocks are the same. The axle can only droop to the point the shock is fully extended and compress to the point the shock is fully compressed. That is the linear line of travel (y axis). Where you sit on that line is determined by coils.

Let's say you have 10" of total travel. With a 2.5" coil you have 4" of up travel and 6" down. Then you get 3.5" coils. Now you have 5" up and 5" down. However, your tire still follows the same line of travel. If you rub now, you'll rub with more lift. To fix the rub you need to limit uptravel and that is done with bump stops. More lift does nothing.

 

Bump steer, so you want a drag link flip. With the flip you need to limit uptravel or the drag link will hit the frame.

It's harder on all of the driveline, not just driveshafts.

Higher center of gravity. If you plan to offroad it, why knowingly get a high center of gravity for no reason?

If you have a 2-door, caster really becomes an issue and coil bow in the rear. Running an aftermarket shaft in the rear of a 2 door becomes a challenge.

 

Ya I see your point. The shock lengths for the 2.5" vs 3.5" are the same so overall flex is the same. So I am guessing you recommend going with a 2.5" lift vs 3.5"? What lift do you run on yours?

 

I would stick with 2.5". The draglink and driveshaft issues invest mentioned is why I stayed with 2.5", I almost put on synergy 3". As long as you Bump properly you won't rub. You might not get full travel of the lift though. Like mine fir instance, I'm bumped too much in rear so I can actually stuff about 1-1.5" more in the rear. My front is perfect. Cutting your fenders or going flat fenders will give you more room in the wheel well and allow you to use less Bump and utilize more of your lifts potential. And that's as long as your shocks allow it. You have to consider them while setting your Bump stop length also. You can have 1" or 2" bumpstops and be bottoming out your shocks and still have room between your bumps. That's not good either.
And of course there are other factors to consider like limit straps, abs lines, brakelines and all that good jazz

 

I've run many lifts. Last year I had the metalcloak game changer with 6pak shocks. Best stuff I've run. I'm currently finishing my new build - 8" rear stretch, 3" front stretch, double triangulated rear, 3 link front, 16" travel ORI struts. You can check my build thread out. I think it has some pics of the metalcloak lift in action. Liked it so much that I'm using their duroflex joints on my custom arms.

I prefer keeping things nice and low and making the clearance. Trimming metal, etc. Most 2.5" lifts met you more like 3"-3.5".

 

1" more lift allows for 1" more bumpstop +longer shocks = allow for bigger tires without rubbing, same up travel/ more down (longer shocks)

That being said if I could do it all again, unless I'm running 40s I would never go higher than 2.5, maybe the 3" EVO plush coils at the most.

 

There is someone on here that is running the RK 1.5" lift with flat fenders and 37s. It's not about lift height it's about proper bumpstops, proper length shocks, and enough clearance for the tires.
Yes a 3.5" lift will allow him to run 37s but without the proper components mentioned already he will still have rubbing or other issues.

 

This is true. However, a flawed solution. First off, shock body clearance will become an issue. Second, most coils won't extend enough.

It's a mall crawlers solution to avoiding modifications to increase clearance for uptravel.