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Rock Krawler JK 2.5" Max Travel Kit

Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:57 AM
  #11  
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yes, 2 welds on the rear trackbar bracket. Not a big deal, just install the lift and take it to get welded.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:59 AM
  #12  
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It's on the list.. my thinking was do the lift and wheels and tires. Get that all sorted out, since the road manners seem to be the biggest issue after lift.. But your right no reason not to do it all at the same time!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 05:10 AM
  #13  
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Love to see some pics after install and hear about any issues you had as I am pulling the trigger on this lift next week!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 05:12 AM
  #14  
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Crap!! Years ago when I was a mechanic I knew all those guys that could just weld up something. Not so much now! Another day lost to misinformation. I'm sure this will end up with waivers being signed and warranties voided. Sounds like a call to Northridge to cancel if it hasn't shipped.
Man that really pisses me off it says right on the web site all bolt on!!!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 06:25 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by richmanyou
It is bolt on, recommended to weld if you plan to wheel it. I have a TF frame side drop bracket I can send you, pay shipping, that will work if you dont want to weld it.
Cool I get it now! thx so much for the clearing that up. I was imagining me driving around with some part dangling around under my Jeep begging for someone to weld on my Jeep I I will get it installed and go from there! you guys are the best!!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 07:54 AM
  #16  
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the black and white instructions (picture wise) kinda suck with the bracket you guys are talking about. when i installed my 2.5 max travel kit last month i sat there and looked at it... and looked at it... went to the jeep, tried to figure it out... went back... looked at it, looked at it...

its not really that bad though. where it mounts on the axle its designed to raise the mounting point for the track bar up above the level of the axle, and there is an obvious side that sits up against the axle (that gets welded on). i wanted to kick myself when i figured it out.

i had never used a step drill bit before, but there was something in the multitude of instructions for stuff i installed last month that said a step bit would be good. i bought this one from amazon dot com...

amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ2UOY/ref=oh_o05_s00_i00_details

it makes short work of starting a hole when you have to do drilling. i freaking love it.


if you are a mechanic im sure you have access to this, but a good shop vice and big ass wrench to fit the lock nuts on the adjustable control arms are a must. i didnt have either at the time of install so i had to use a pipe wrench for the nuts and stand on the control arm. im sure i didnt get them tight enough so im going to have to go back eventually but oh well.

also read up on the "death wobble" thread somewhere here. its a great read and it will help you diagnose any shimmies or wobbles in steering you have after lift install.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 08:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by damon.l
the black and white instructions (picture wise) kinda suck with the bracket you guys are talking about. when i installed my 2.5 max travel kit last month i sat there and looked at it... and looked at it... went to the jeep, tried to figure it out... went back... looked at it, looked at it...

its not really that bad though. where it mounts on the axle its designed to raise the mounting point for the track bar up above the level of the axle, and there is an obvious side that sits up against the axle (that gets welded on). i wanted to kick myself when i figured it out.

i had never used a step drill bit before, but there was something in the multitude of instructions for stuff i installed last month that said a step bit would be good. i bought this one from amazon dot com...

amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ2UOY/ref=oh_o05_s00_i00_details

it makes short work of starting a hole when you have to do drilling. i freaking love it.


if you are a mechanic im sure you have access to this, but a good shop vice and big ass wrench to fit the lock nuts on the adjustable control arms are a must. i didnt have either at the time of install so i had to use a pipe wrench for the nuts and stand on the control arm. im sure i didnt get them tight enough so im going to have to go back eventually but oh well.

also read up on the "death wobble" thread somewhere here. its a great read and it will help you diagnose any shimmies or wobbles in steering you have after lift install.
Oh its been awhile since my wrenching days! I might be sending ya some pms next saturday from the driveway! thx for the info!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #18  
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I installed the 2.5 max travel last week on my 2012 unlimited rubi, some areas that slowed me down were; right side upper shock mount had to remove plastic to get wrench on nut (I just used a set of diagonal cuts to remove the plastic), the sway bar disconnects had the smaller upper mounting hole so I had to drill out the holes to 1/2 inch (this was some hard metal and I burnt up one drill bit enlargeing the hole). Yeah they don't tell you when until you read the instructions that you should weld the rear track bar bracket, but it's not that big of a deal, drilling the hole horizontal to the axel requires a step drill bit or a right angle drill.

Make sure you remove the brake line and wheel sensor wires brackets before you lower your axels because they don't strrench to far and same for the emergency brake cables on the rear.

Overall a easy install with the proper tools the LCA's require a 1 1/2 inch wrench with red lock-tite, don't forget brake fluid. I used a Dewalt 300ft LB impact wrench which sped up removal and installation of bolts. Of course you will need a torque wrench.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #19  
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also when you are adjusting your control arms to the length that the instructions say, the measurement you make should be from center of the front hole to the center of the back hole. that wasnt specified in the instructions so i had to do some online forum searching to figure it out.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by N2Deep4u
Make sure you remove the brake line and wheel sensor wires brackets before you lower your axels because they don't strrench to far and same for the emergency brake cables on the rear.
fwiw i didnt disconnect mine. i wasnt planning on doing the brake lines right away so i just left the lines attached. you def do stretch them to the max and then some. probably not a wise move, but i didnt break any lines when i did it.
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