Never had one ,but it sure sounds good and as long you're shipping'em to CO....

Oh and to get back on topic the Metal Ready is it. It does this weird galvanizing/ etching thing to the metal, but I hesitate to call it primer because it's too easy to apply. Primer has always kind of been a PITA to me.

 

Maybe this is a dumb question, but I try to avoid paint and body work like the plague, so I m pretty clueless about it.... Can you apply POR-15 over a painted surface? I know you guys are talking about bare metal and applying over rust, but what about on an already painted surface? Like the frame and underbody? Any special prep? TIA

 

...wanted to purchase the boat sliders....real nice piece of work...UNTIL...I found out that they are bare metal for $526.00, + shipping...TREK does not powder coat the skids...after inquring and getting estimates for powder coating locally at 4 places, the best price was $200.00...almost a grand for rocker guards after it's all said and done...I think I'll pass for the moment.

 

I'm no expert, I just runa paint company!!!!!


Andy,

If they were mine, I'd rattle can them with red primer, then a satin black. That way you can just climb under every once in a while and give them a touch-up! That's what I do with my diff covers, and axles when I wash the underside.

Also, since they are new, wipe them with Denatred alcohol, remove the light glaze they have on, then spray a few minutes afterwards. Couple of coats of satin and call it a day.

Tyler

Feel free to call if you have any questions.

 

Yup. X2. Keep the can as you're gonna need to shoot 'em again after a good run.

 

The POR15 is made to bond right to metal and especially to rust. It doesn't do its job with paint under it. With all the crap they put on the roads around here, rust is a major enemy of chassis and such. For the battle I'll just crawl underneath before the season begins and do a bit of a wire brush to any rust spot, dab some Metal Ready then touch up with some POR 15. Sorry paint boys, but after a winter of Magnesium Chloride, the only thing that doesn't have some rust spots as far as the underneath goes is the front bumper I POR 15'd last fall.

 

Good point. We don't do salt around here, so I didn't think of that.

 

Looks good, but I think you are going to have a hell of a time trying to get your Jeep through that door to install the skids. You might should think about taking them out to the Jeep.

 

Just a clarification:

Etching compounds just microscopically rough up the surface so that the next coating you apply has a a lot of scrobiculations to grab onto...its not a "primer" is a surface PREPPER.



Primer is made to be applied to a surface that the PAINT would NOT, or would have a harder time grabbing....so its a paint that sticks to the substrate like the bare metal on one side, and to the new paint on the other side....to help bond all three together.

Ironically, POR 15 is MEANT to chemically react to RUST.

If the plates are really that thick, it will take a LONG time for rust to do enough damage to matter at all any way...

So - personally, I'd mount then bare, as is, and let them rust...they ARE skid plates.....they will get dragged all over the place, and are NOT things of beauty, etc.

If you have time one day in the future, knock off the flakes if any, so you just have a surface coat of rust, and POR 15 them with 3 coats following the directions.

That stuff reacts and bonds and makes a rock like coating, and protects it from futher rust....and then give the exposed to light parts the recommended top coatings to protect the POR 15, etc.

Bed liner is nice, but, it drags, and bogs on rocks when it catches...making sliding over stuff harder....esp. as most of it is designed to be "non-slip" etc.

Plan B - Dip the plates in zinc phosphate baths...turns them sort of yellow, and resists rust very well too...low maintenance.

Painting slids like you paint other stuff is a waste...the paint will come off. Really good Powder coat, like Shrocks'...and I've also liked Skid-Row's Powder coat too...might get gouged etc...but, no rust spreads, because the coatings stay intact around the wound...protecting the rest.

Cheap or poorly prepped powder coat just peels off like a colorform when whacked, so its not worth getting bad powder coat.

PlanC - Rattle can a primer and then an enamal paint...and touch it up with a rattle can after trips, etc.

No WRONG answer...just what works for you...and how anal you are about the paint job on a metal plate you'll be dragging across rocks.

 

If it was me I'd go option C since it is on the bottom of the jeep or bring them to a good autobody place so they can do it right. I'm also thinking the two part epoxy paint used on metal boats would be solid and holds very well as this paint often rams rocks and only scratches. Hardens really well and is self leveling.