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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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So which front drive shaft should I buy?

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Old 12-04-2008, 12:53 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JackMac4
Nobody has mentioned TeraFlex's shafts - I have a set I'm putting on this weekend, but just looking at them they look pretty beefy compared to the stock shafts.

I would guess they'll hold up just as good as any of the aforementioned shafts - and the price is good.
The Teraflex shop is not to far away from Tatton's shop here in Salt Lake City Utah, and I am pretty sure Teraflex orders their custom shafts from Tatton! Whatever! I have no problems with mine with 3 trips to Moab under its belt!!And far cheaper than the others!
Old 12-04-2008, 01:17 PM
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I just installed my JE Reel 1310 front shaft with replacement pinion and transfer case yokes.
It's a beefy little unit and installation was a breeze. And also a good match to the 1350 JE Reel I installed in the rear.
Many thanks to David, at Northridge, for putting this package deal together for me at a very competitive price.
(I'm so freakin' pleased that I'm not even upset that FedEx delayed my Tuffy console & glovebox inserts from David by a day due to bad weather in Memphis!)

Like I said very pleased, but a little surprised, as I have no increase in driveline vibration at any speed up to 75mph (the fastest I've tested it) with the caster set at 7.1 degrees on both sides.
I'd actually have to say it feels smoother at most speeds, than the stock unit(s), which was a similar observation I made after installing the rear JE Reel 1350. Perhaps a full set of adjustable control arms are the key here, it just seems like some of the "harmonic" vibrations are gone now.

When I installed the rear arms and 1350 driveshaft at the same time, the difference was amazing. It was so much tighter and controlled, it was almost like a shock upgrade. And no longer did the rear end feel like it was "walking" or "wallowing" around.

I did the front upper arms, then the front lower arms, then the driveshaft. Each gave an improvement, the biggest difference was the upper arms to get good caster back, the lowers tightened the suspension up, and dialed in the steering.
It's a very solid feeling front end, just a little bit today in 4-hi down a dirt trail and it feels like just the front Toyos would drag the Jeep over anything.

Of course, I have always been a critic on the stock driveshafts even on the mildest of lifts. They may be low on warranty claims relative to a traditional shaft, but what the h-ll was JEEP thinking?

Old pic with the old shafts!


Last edited by edwin907; 12-06-2008 at 02:32 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 03:32 PM
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A friend has a 4 Dr JK Rubicon, 2008, 10K miles, Red he just wants to sell it. not much of a wheeler. Down here in TX
Old 12-06-2008, 11:23 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Hammerman
A friend has a 4 Dr JK Rubicon, 2008, 10K miles, Red he just wants to sell it. not much of a wheeler. Down here in TX
I think you posted in the wrong thread......
Old 12-07-2008, 05:43 AM
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It wouldn't be the first time. This includes everyone and all. but if you need the urge to give a spanking, well get in line.
Old 12-07-2008, 08:48 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by edwin907
Like I said very pleased, but a little surprised, as I have no increase in driveline vibration at any speed up to 75mph (the fastest I've tested it) with the caster set at 7.1 degrees on both sides.
I'd actually have to say it feels smoother at most speeds, than the stock unit(s), which was a similar observation I made after installing the rear JE Reel 1350. Perhaps a full set of adjustable control arms are the key here, it just seems like some of the "harmonic" vibrations are gone now.

When I installed the rear arms and 1350 driveshaft at the same time, the difference was amazing. It was so much tighter and controlled, it was almost like a shock upgrade. And no longer did the rear end feel like it was "walking" or "wallowing" around.

I did the front upper arms, then the front lower arms, then the driveshaft. Each gave an improvement, the biggest difference was the upper arms to get good caster back, the lowers tightened the suspension up, and dialed in the steering.
It's a very solid feeling front end, just a little bit today in 4-hi down a dirt trail and it feels like just the front Toyos would drag the Jeep over anything.

Your JK looks great! I think we have another convert to doing it right and going with adjustable control arms and good aftermarket driveshafts.

Question for you. I would guess that your lift is in the 3" range - do you have any clearance issues with the 37's? Have you had a chance to fully articulate it and are things OK. The reason I ask is that I've got a 3 1/2" lift and am thinking of going from 35 to 37 tires. It looks to me like I'd have no problems but thought I'd ask what your experience was.

Another few questions. How do you like those Hutchison wheels? How low have you gone in airing down? Did you do the tire install yourself or have soebody do it for you? How did they balance out?
Old 12-07-2008, 10:04 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by chuck45
Question for you. I would guess that your lift is in the 3" range - do you have any clearance issues with the 37's? Have you had a chance to fully articulate it and are things OK.
Another few questions. How do you like those Hutchison wheels? How low have you gone in airing down? Did you do the tire install yourself or have soebody do it for you? How did they balance out?
Thanks for the compliments, I've done 100% of the work on the Jeep myself and even when I've screwed up it hasn't been that bad. Just be real careful when you go to drill holes, I have been so no permanent problems. Your Jeep is an incredible unlimited, and an inspiration for how to do it right.

I am running 35" Toyos, and yes, it rubs a bit in the front disconnected, maybe it's the 3/4" Skyjacker spacers with the 616 HD springs that help here, but it's not bad enough to make me change it. Of course I don't wheel as hard as a lot of the readers here, and it wouldn't be hard to get the Jeep in position where the mud tire would rip the fender off the front.
The rear is a different story, 2" bump stop extensions are needed here, especially after the rear control arms and driveshaft, and that's still not really enough, but it seems to be enough to keep the fenders on the Jeep.
I am running some custom aluminum blocks, they are about 1.5" and they definitely aren't enough, so I'll probably get some 2" bumpstop extensions.

I am considering adding a 1" bodylift, that would make it just about right.
You see, I am very pleased with the OME lift how I have it set up, maybe I'll consider a spring/shock upgrade in the future, something that would give even more droop/lift, maybe even the new OME long-travel shocks, but for an all purpose street/trail rig, this setup is excellent.
Another option is to go to a mid-width style front bumper, like maybe a Shrockworths or the FabFour Hardcore with custom cut factory fenders. There is no doubt about how good this would look, along with a color matched RR snorkel.
But, I just like the full width bumper/factory fender look, and a bodylift would be a cheap upgrade. It wouldn't really matter on the appearance of the front, and the way the FabFour bumper/tire carrier sits in the back I thnik it'd look OK, might need to black out the rear pinch seam, but I kind of like the "mechanical" look.

As far as the Hutchinsons go, well they made me buy a CO2 system!
Airing them down to 12lb, (I've been down to 6-8 but there's not a lot of point in that low except for maybe rocks), gives the Jeep incredible traction, a great offroad ride, and the sometimes false illusion that you can go anywhere!
Well, let me tell you, you can't, but that's what the winch is for, right?
Going to get a stuck F250 4WD the other day, I stopped, aired down the Toyos, proceeded across the field to the trapped Ford, and got stuck!
The Ford driver says, while dripping mud on my interior, " see, now you're stuck too", "relax" I said, "lets try four wheel hi".
He couldn't believe we weren't even in 4WD and over half way there!
I couldn't believe I had forgot to put it in 4WD! Of course I'm a rookie compared to many of the guys here, I've only been wheeling intermittantly since 1973! Mostly in GMC & Dodge trucks, but have had a Toyota in there too. Driven a bunch of Jeeps, but this Rubicon is the first one I've had the pleasure of owning.

I mounted the tires on the Hutchinsons myself, in the garage while I was waiting on the Jeep to be delivered. It took some time, you'll be glad to have an air ratchet, it's a lot of bolts, but it's very simple and easy.
Was planning on having them balanced, but never needed to, and with the first rotation coming up I may have to yet, but we'll see.

Last edited by edwin907; 12-07-2008 at 10:11 AM.
Old 01-01-2010, 07:16 PM
  #48  
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Default Tattons shafts

Originally Posted by moabjk072d
I went down to Tattons this morning and he is making me a new front driveline right now and will be installing it monday, it will be a long travel, 1.20 wall with 1310 joints and he asked me not to post the price but so far it is way cheaper than anybody else and he is installing it for me, He also told me if I ever have a problem with it he will take care of it.

I will let you know how it comes out next week.
How did these driveshafts work out?



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