Soft brake pedal after SS brake line installation
#11
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sarasota FL
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I had the opposite happen to me. I installed the crown lines up front included with my rancho lift. The difference in pedal feel was amazing. Much harder and more feel. 3 weeks later I upgraded to hawk pads and even better! I am planning on upgrading the rear now that I am running 35s.
#12
I was looking into getting SS lines to get a stiffer pedal but I will follow this thread closely before buying.
Has anyone tried braking in a gravel road to activate the ABS on purpose and remove the air from the ABS pump and then bleed the system?
Has anyone tried braking in a gravel road to activate the ABS on purpose and remove the air from the ABS pump and then bleed the system?
#13
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Athens/Hellas
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I installed PowerStop rotors and pads with 4” Crown Performance brake lines.
I have this issue:(
soft pedal and ...I think no difference on my brakes.
I have JK since 2009 and is the first time who change something from brake system. I couldnt activate abs system but I ll try it
I have this issue:(
soft pedal and ...I think no difference on my brakes.
I have JK since 2009 and is the first time who change something from brake system. I couldnt activate abs system but I ll try it
#14
Super Moderator
What did you use for bleeding? This seems to be common due to the tool used for bleeding. Some tools and methods of bleeding don't seem to work well on our JK brakes.
I have a 2009 and installed the Mopar BBK which comes with new replacement front lines and I don't have this problem and I didn't have to do anything with the ABS.
Alls i can tell you is what I did for bleeding seemed to work well.
Here's how I bled my brakes.
1. Remove brake fluid cap, make sure it is filled a little above the full line, ensure it does not go empty while bleeding.
2. Bleed one caliper at a time, starting at the caliper which is furthest from the master cylinder and then moving closer. (Rear passenger side>rear driver side>Front passenger side>Front driver side).
3. I Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes.
4. Fill brake fluid to full line, replace the cap.
I used a vacuum pump which was the Harbor Freight $20 special, which I'll admit was a piece of sh*t, where I threw it away immediately after finishing bleeding my brakes so I'ld suggest the higher quality Mityvac vacuum pump if you want something more reliable.
I have a 2009 and installed the Mopar BBK which comes with new replacement front lines and I don't have this problem and I didn't have to do anything with the ABS.
Alls i can tell you is what I did for bleeding seemed to work well.
Here's how I bled my brakes.
1. Remove brake fluid cap, make sure it is filled a little above the full line, ensure it does not go empty while bleeding.
2. Bleed one caliper at a time, starting at the caliper which is furthest from the master cylinder and then moving closer. (Rear passenger side>rear driver side>Front passenger side>Front driver side).
3. I Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes.
4. Fill brake fluid to full line, replace the cap.
I used a vacuum pump which was the Harbor Freight $20 special, which I'll admit was a piece of sh*t, where I threw it away immediately after finishing bleeding my brakes so I'ld suggest the higher quality Mityvac vacuum pump if you want something more reliable.
Last edited by Rednroll; 09-29-2018 at 04:21 AM.
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Athens/Hellas
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What did you use for bleeding? This seems to be common due to the tool used for bleeding. Some tools and methods of bleeding don't seem to work well on our JK brakes.
I have a 2009 and installed the Mopar BBK which comes with new replacement front lines and I don't have this problem and I didn't have to do anything with the ABS.
Alls i can tell you is what I did for bleeding seemed to work well.
Here's how I bled my brakes.
1. Remove brake fluid cap, make sure it is filled a little above the full line, ensure it does not go empty while bleeding.
2. Bleed one caliper at a time, starting at the caliper which is furthest from the master cylinder and then moving closer. (Rear passenger side>rear driver side>Front passenger side>Front driver side).
3. I Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes.
4. Fill brake fluid to full line, replace the cap.
I used a vacuum pump which was the Harbor Freight $20 special, which I'll admit was a piece of sh*t, where I threw it away immediately after finishing bleeding my brakes so I'ld suggest the higher quality Mityvac vacuum pump if you want something more reliable.
I have a 2009 and installed the Mopar BBK which comes with new replacement front lines and I don't have this problem and I didn't have to do anything with the ABS.
Alls i can tell you is what I did for bleeding seemed to work well.
Here's how I bled my brakes.
1. Remove brake fluid cap, make sure it is filled a little above the full line, ensure it does not go empty while bleeding.
2. Bleed one caliper at a time, starting at the caliper which is furthest from the master cylinder and then moving closer. (Rear passenger side>rear driver side>Front passenger side>Front driver side).
3. I Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes.
4. Fill brake fluid to full line, replace the cap.
I used a vacuum pump which was the Harbor Freight $20 special, which I'll admit was a piece of sh*t, where I threw it away immediately after finishing bleeding my brakes so I'ld suggest the higher quality Mityvac vacuum pump if you want something more reliable.
#16
I've had best luck using a Motive Power pressure bleeder. Install one line at a time as quickly as possible and bleed before mocing on to the next one. Don't do all four, then bleed. Air that gets in the lines as you swap out the flex hoses flows upward towards the reservoir and gets trapped, particularly in the long, rear hard lines. The rears flow very slowly, there's not enough pressure to move it quickly. In general I'll pressurize the system and let it flow through each of the rear calipers for about one full minute before closing the bleeder. Hope this helps.
#17
JK Enthusiast
I'm interested in this as well. My pedal has been soft since I purchased my 2015 JKU last year. I installed a Metalcloak lift with extended brake lines, and hoped bleeding them then would help, but still no. I have an extended warranty but the dealer won't diagnose the problem (which we think may be a bad booster) unless I replace the stock brake lines (which I don't have anymore) or purchase the Mopar performance lines, at $79 each. I guess at some point I'll do that and hopefully the solution falls under the warranty.