I dont believe there is a width difference. If your overseas and cant call, Email Solid directly, You'll have an answer shortly (Solid will be on here once they become a sponsor). . In the mean time, I'll find out the answers on monday and let you know. My rear shafts are not here yet, when they come in, we'll look at the rear flange and see if thats something that can be done.


they are CJ brake rotors, you can get them at any autoparts/jeep store.

 

its two different things. You'll still need lockers if you want them

 

Got yeah. sorry about that. I would call them and see. I'm no engineer. I'm sure you get get your center hole reemed out. But how weak would that make your wheel?

I'm just talking here. I dont know the answer, . Its definetly something to look into if you wanna save some cash, and like your wheels

 

I just think that is a bad idea, if it could even physically be done (which I don't think it could). I am fine with runnig spacers, but running a spacer with a stock wheel that has been machined to have a significantly larger center hole diameter would be scary. I don't think you would even find a machine shop willing to do that due to liability reasons. A 5 on 5 1/2 hub is pretty large.

 

I'm confused as well....

There's several people here who aren't sure of what the benefits are? What does this do for you?

You said you have to get out and manually lock them? What's different from the lockers we already have? Then another guy said you still need your lockers and this is two different things????

Can someone please give a "solid axles for dummies" explanation?

 

These are locking hub systems, not locking differentials as on a Rubicon. The Solid hubs allow you to disconnect your wheel hub from the axleshaft, like on a CJ.

 

Ok lots of questions and I will try my best to answer what I know .

Stock jeep has non servicable unit bearings that are alyways "locked in"

The benifit to this set up =

-Strength- a spindle and hub which this is. Is so much stonger than a unit bearing.

-The ability to not have your front end spinning while driving thus reducing the "drag". MPG increase will be very very slight if at all. Normal wear and tear will go down.

- The ability to unlock a hub if one of your axles break.

- The ability to flat tow without putting miles on everything , I believe they are working on a rear end full float kit also.

- A Hub kit acts as a switch so that your axles do not "engage" at the wheel. No engagement meens no turning , means less wear.

If you brake a front axle shaft on the trail with your stock set up you have no choice but to get out and fix it . With this set up you can simply unlock the hub and limp out.

Also I believe the center bore of your new wheels need to be 4.250" I know the wheels for the JK are limited going to 5 on 5.5" will open up alot of new wheel designs and MFG's 5 on 5.5 has been around forever.

Also you can run CTM u-joints on a daily driven vehicle there is no problems with that we have been testing one set for over 50,000 miles now without any trouble.


Con to this set up-

Price- Lets face it it is alot of money

New wheels- If you are planning on doing this set up you may want to do it when you first lift your jeep so you dont have to buy new wheels twice.

Unlike the TJ the JK allows us to run a much bigger tire than what the stock unit bearing can handle for a long period of time. My guess is if you are on 37's your stock unit bearing will last maybe a year or two at the max. and unit bearing are not cheaper either they go for around $125-$175 each

Well that is my 2 cents hope I was able to help you out.

David

 

The term "locker" or "lockers" refers to a locking differential. It locks both left and right shafts together so that both tires on an axle are getting an equal amount of torque. With an open diff, torque or power follows the path of least resistance - lose traction with one tire and you're stuck because all the torque is going to the spinning tire and none to the other.

Lock-out hubs allow you to unlock the front drive train at the wheels. Older 4x4's all had them. Most modern 4wd systems do not have any provision allowing you to unlock the hubs which means the front axle and driveshaft are always turning. The primary advantage of being able to unlock the front hubs is to reduce wear to the front half of your drive train. It's also nice on lifted vehicles because the increased angles of the driveshafts often cause vibration. If your front shaft isn't turning it can't be vibrating.

Hope this helps.

 

been hoping for this,if avail for 44 sign me up(I love owning a JK,new toys and adds coming out everyday,UPS and the credit card companies must love us.read a good quote recently"you already shot yourself in the foot when you asked salesman how much for the Rubicon? so you might as well go all out and do it right"

 

Jay,

Let me know what time is good to call you. I know you are busy with your duties to our country, but didn't want to write an email.

The distance between the wheel mounting surface and the knuckle is unchanged. When the kit was designed I had a few parameters had to be met.

1) Retain the ESP functions using the factory sensor and have the sensor in a sealed environment.

The sensor mount is machined into the spindle and the reluctor ring is machined into the hub. I could have simply welded a block onto a spindle and a press on ring, but that's a very cheesy way to do it. I'm not saying it doesn't work, but I wouldn't of been happy with that cobbled arrangement.

2) Utilize a readily available shaft length / lockout configuration.

I chose the 9.94 long Dana 44 stub shaft.) The main reason that if a stub shaft does break, many individuals will have a spare lockout and shaft. I didn't want to see a weekend ruined from a failed special shaft. Our shafts are US made by a very well known forging house and are 30 spline.

3) Use a readily available rotor.

I chose the CJ style rotor and bore out the center to 4.00 inches. I could have used the rotor as an off the shelf product, but wanted to ensure a positive stop for the reluctor ring sealing. Since there is machining involved, they are provided. There is no machining on the OD of the rotor.

4) Upgrade to the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

I did a bit of research on the 5 inch bolt pattern and decided that I wasn't comfortable having people bore out their wheels. The aftermarket offers 5 on 5.5 wheels in many configurations and styles. People that have purchased wheels can still sell them for reasonable value to other JK owners that do not want this upgrade.

Included in the kit.

2 forged spindles with inner spindle bearings installed
2 forged hubs with races installed, seals installed and the back bearings greased
2 30 spline shafts
2 v-lip seals, thrust washers, mud slingers for shafts
2 u-joints
1 Warn 30 spline lockout kit
2 spindle nut assemblies
2 rotors assembled onto hubs with studs
2 front bearings

I realize this kit is not made for everyone and didn't design it for everyone. It was designed to fill a void in the market where people need CTM u-joints, and aftermarket shafts as well as the ability to disconnect the front drivetrain.

BTW a true high pinion 60 front end retaining all ESP functions is right around the corner.

Matt