SOLID Front Axle Hub Conversion Kit - Available & Installed!!
Jay,
Let me know what time is good to call you. I know you are busy with your duties to our country, but didn't want to write an email.
The distance between the wheel mounting surface and the knuckle is unchanged. When the kit was designed I had a few parameters had to be met.
1) Retain the ESP functions using the factory sensor and have the sensor in a sealed environment.
The sensor mount is machined into the spindle and the reluctor ring is machined into the hub. I could have simply welded a block onto a spindle and a press on ring, but that's a very cheesy way to do it. I'm not saying it doesn't work, but I wouldn't of been happy with that cobbled arrangement.
2) Utilize a readily available shaft length / lockout configuration.
I chose the 9.94 long Dana 44 stub shaft.) The main reason that if a stub shaft does break, many individuals will have a spare lockout and shaft. I didn't want to see a weekend ruined from a failed special shaft. Our shafts are US made by a very well known forging house and are 30 spline.
3) Use a readily available rotor.
I chose the CJ style rotor and bore out the center to 4.00 inches. I could have used the rotor as an off the shelf product, but wanted to ensure a positive stop for the reluctor ring sealing. Since there is machining involved, they are provided. There is no machining on the OD of the rotor.
4) Upgrade to the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.
I did a bit of research on the 5 inch bolt pattern and decided that I wasn't comfortable having people bore out their wheels. The aftermarket offers 5 on 5.5 wheels in many configurations and styles. People that have purchased wheels can still sell them for reasonable value to other JK owners that do not want this upgrade.
Included in the kit.
2 forged spindles with inner spindle bearings installed
2 forged hubs with races installed, seals installed and the back bearings greased
2 30 spline shafts
2 v-lip seals, thrust washers, mud slingers for shafts
2 u-joints
1 Warn 30 spline lockout kit
2 spindle nut assemblies
2 rotors assembled onto hubs with studs
2 front bearings
I realize this kit is not made for everyone and didn't design it for everyone. It was designed to fill a void in the market where people need CTM u-joints, and aftermarket shafts as well as the ability to disconnect the front drivetrain.
BTW a true high pinion 60 front end retaining all ESP functions is right around the corner.
Matt
Let me know what time is good to call you. I know you are busy with your duties to our country, but didn't want to write an email.
The distance between the wheel mounting surface and the knuckle is unchanged. When the kit was designed I had a few parameters had to be met.
1) Retain the ESP functions using the factory sensor and have the sensor in a sealed environment.
The sensor mount is machined into the spindle and the reluctor ring is machined into the hub. I could have simply welded a block onto a spindle and a press on ring, but that's a very cheesy way to do it. I'm not saying it doesn't work, but I wouldn't of been happy with that cobbled arrangement.
2) Utilize a readily available shaft length / lockout configuration.
I chose the 9.94 long Dana 44 stub shaft.) The main reason that if a stub shaft does break, many individuals will have a spare lockout and shaft. I didn't want to see a weekend ruined from a failed special shaft. Our shafts are US made by a very well known forging house and are 30 spline.
3) Use a readily available rotor.
I chose the CJ style rotor and bore out the center to 4.00 inches. I could have used the rotor as an off the shelf product, but wanted to ensure a positive stop for the reluctor ring sealing. Since there is machining involved, they are provided. There is no machining on the OD of the rotor.
4) Upgrade to the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.
I did a bit of research on the 5 inch bolt pattern and decided that I wasn't comfortable having people bore out their wheels. The aftermarket offers 5 on 5.5 wheels in many configurations and styles. People that have purchased wheels can still sell them for reasonable value to other JK owners that do not want this upgrade.
Included in the kit.
2 forged spindles with inner spindle bearings installed
2 forged hubs with races installed, seals installed and the back bearings greased
2 30 spline shafts
2 v-lip seals, thrust washers, mud slingers for shafts
2 u-joints
1 Warn 30 spline lockout kit
2 spindle nut assemblies
2 rotors assembled onto hubs with studs
2 front bearings
I realize this kit is not made for everyone and didn't design it for everyone. It was designed to fill a void in the market where people need CTM u-joints, and aftermarket shafts as well as the ability to disconnect the front drivetrain.
BTW a true high pinion 60 front end retaining all ESP functions is right around the corner.
Matt
isn't this a post from a non-sponsoring manufacturer pimping his product?
Doesn't the 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern force you to use a 15" wheel? Or do the wheel manufacturers just not list 16" or 17" on 5 x 5.5 in the catalogs because it's not a common wheel? Also, 15" won't clear the JK hardware will it?
I'd like to convert to this set-up when my "unit bearings" wear out. I like the old spindle set-up for durability, serviceability, and disconnecting the front so I don't have to tolerate the front shaft vibration.
I'd like to convert to this set-up when my "unit bearings" wear out. I like the old spindle set-up for durability, serviceability, and disconnecting the front so I don't have to tolerate the front shaft vibration.
Doesn't the 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern force you to use a 15" wheel? Or do the wheel manufacturers just not list 16" or 17" on 5 x 5.5 in the catalogs because it's not a common wheel? Also, 15" won't clear the JK hardware will it?
I'd like to convert to this set-up when my "unit bearings" wear out. I like the old spindle set-up for durability, serviceability, and disconnecting the front so I don't have to tolerate the front shaft vibration.
I'd like to convert to this set-up when my "unit bearings" wear out. I like the old spindle set-up for durability, serviceability, and disconnecting the front so I don't have to tolerate the front shaft vibration.
Enlarging the center hole of your rims (as long as your don't get close to the lug nut features should have minimal effect on the rims strength. Most of the stress from the loads will be outside of the bolt pattern. There is a limit though - the stress from the lug nuts will eventually crack to the center hole if the material is too thin.
Chris - BSME
Chris - BSME
David said ( My guess is if you are on 37's your stock unit bearing will last maybe a year or two at the max. and unit bearing are not cheaper either they go for around $125-$175 each )
LOL So much for the life time drive train warranty. !
33
LOL So much for the life time drive train warranty. !
33
My wife crashed the JK the other day, the passenger tire took a very hard hit, enough to bend the C on the axle. The spindal and hub held up good! no problems there.
Now i just have to get another axle and swap the hubs onto that..
Now i just have to get another axle and swap the hubs onto that..
Remember the fullsized dodge ram 2wd truck uses 5x5.5 wheels,, the steel 16" rims on the j8 were from one of those,, and the factory mags off those trucks are plentiful in the yards,, I'm planning this swap when I get my 44 front axle for my x.. Then I'll epgrade the rear axle shafts at the same time..
Would be nice if there was a set of axles to buy already converted to 5x5.5 with the hubs on front and rubi lockers for bolt in,, buy the time I get to do there there will probably be 60's out,,
Would be nice if there was a set of axles to buy already converted to 5x5.5 with the hubs on front and rubi lockers for bolt in,, buy the time I get to do there there will probably be 60's out,,


