Very nice work! Did you do a cut and turn on the Cs to adjust the caster?

 

They are a tight fit even frozen actually. They were so cold after a week in my freezer I had to grab them with gloves on. It took about 20-25 strikes with a sledge to get the drivers side (shorter) in and about 35-40 for the passenger side. The first 60% of the sleeve goes right in but when you get to the last 6" (the knurled portion) they're tough.

My biggest concern was that I would push them in too far or not far enough. You want them to go in far enough to get into the differential housing but not too far that they touch the inner seal. Nitro recommends they be flush with the axle tube. That seal driver worked perfectly for that purpose but it took a lot longer to make than I had anticipated

Steve

 

No, I'm not brave enough. I'm adjusting my caster with the arms instead. I would love to try it, but I'm not sure I could get the measurements right.

Steve

 

You got my hopes up when you said "adjust caster". I thought you might reclock the C's. Oh well.....

Looks good, I'm a big fan of trussed factory 44's.

 

Great job! Looking good!

 

Nice job. I need to put this on my to do list when funds permit. Getting gears done this weekend so may be a while.

 

Another update. I got the ball joints in last night. Screwed up the little band that holds the Synergy ball joint boot to the stud, so I have to get another before I can put the knuckles back on:




Here it is back in the Jeep with my arms adjusted for the correct caster.




Then I went on to install my Synergy front track bar brace and sector shaft brace. Simple install. My pitman arm bolt was on with way less than the spec 180 ft/lbs of torque:




Next is the knuckles, drill the passenger side for the high steer kit and install the new tie rod.

Steve