You need to measure and see if the lowers are set to 23 1/4 inches. This is about 6 degrees and what I am running without issues.

New drive lines will allow for the greater flex in the joints connecting the front driveshaft to the transfer case. You may also need uppers to get it dialed in perfectly.

But all you need to do now is get the caster moved back to 4 or 5 degrees. You can have an alignment guy do it or remove the bolts and back out the control arms until the vibes go away. Making them shorter will fix your issues.

 

Wow, does no one listen? I told the shop 23 1/4" on the lower control arms and 6-7 degrees of caster. I get 7.2/7.4 caster and the arms are 23 1/2". I paid $130 for the alignment. WTF Im going back on Friday.

I know, I know, if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.

 

I had it realigned to 6.7/6.8 degrees of caster (arms at 23 1/4") and its near perfect. I have a slight vibe at 60mph, but its barely there. I might go one more turn on the arms and see if the vibe goes away, but I could live with it and Im REAL picky.

The wandering is gone. The twitchy steering is gone. The steering wheel moving on bumps is gone. I like the Jeep even more. Now only if it had a HEMI.

 

At 60-65 mph was where I was getting my vibe with the stock shaft. I didn't wanna take any chances with the stocker, it's been good to me, so I ordered a JE reel to replace it. I think I was hearing it more than feeling cause I had my drainplugs out and I have the mopar rubber floor liner and get a bit more noise than carpet. The old stocker does have just a tink of play in the top bearing. I'll use it as an emergency shaft. Glad your gettin your JK ironed out

 

I thought a stock driveline would handle more castor than a aftermarket?

 

it'll handle less angles the U-joint shafts

 

Id have to run less castor with an aftermarket driveline.
I want as much castor as possible.

 

KNTR

You got it man, you lift has what you need to get you where you wanted to be. I am happy for you man! Love your Jeep and glad you got what you needed.

 

The double cardan joint at the transfer case handles the drive line angle better than the ball bearing stocker. At 4-5inches of lift in frt ,the bearing joint and shaft are at it's limit. If your vibe or noise increases in the next week or two, it's that top bearing screaming. Wheeling it will make it come on quicker, just highway driving , may last a little longer. When your pinion was rotated down to acheive better castor it kicked the end by the T-case up, at least on mine it did. Waaayyy better drivability, but the stock shaft can't handle much more than where it was at before my control arms, it tweaked it enough to give me a vibe and noise, so I ordered a new shaft.

 

Just keep an eye on the shaft KNTR, if it starts throwing little bits of grease up by the tcase, change your shaft. I Like the other stuff added to your rig recently also.