Just use a pipe wrench on the locking nut, I have a big ass 15in long crecent, and it wouldn't open far enough. Pipe wrench and your good to go.I think that lock nut or jam nut is something weird like 1 13/16in. If you have a crecent that goes to 2inches your good, otherwise , a pipe wrench will work. Control arm bolts are 21mm.

 

METRIC!! My 13/16" fits on it pretty good.

Did you mount the arms with the grease zerts up or down?

 

I think you missed what we were saying. The rubicon manual tranny has NO vibes or clearance issues. Its the X automatics have the problems.

 

One down , one up, on the TF frt lowers, it's the only way to mount them correctly.

 

A guy out here with a rubi manual couldn't fit the 1350 JE Real drive shaft in his. They're looking at a body lift to make it fit.

 

Body lift?? For a driveshaft Is the output flange that close to the body tub?

 

OH, if your trying to do this by yourself, do one control arm at a time. It also makes it easier to have 2 jacks, one under the pumpkin and one under the pinion.

 

Double Cardon is hitting the Trans linkage I guess. I heard someone else had this problem too. His rear 1350 is hitting the gas tank.

After looking at how big that 1350 joint was on his I thought no way would that thing clear my auto tranny so I had a 1330 shaft made by Woods. So far no rubbing anywhere. But, now seeing his rear problems I'm wondering about the rear now too. Again.. I had heard of some people having gas tank rubbing issues... but it's only the skid plate back there and only when flexed out... so maybe we can live with that one.

 

Also,Those control arms need to be torqued in the 120-125ft.lbs range.

 

Gotcha, I have a 1310 up frt, didn't know the 1350 was that BIG!