Superlift help
I love hearing about this being corrected. I'm experiencing the same issues and am having the Teraflex Long arm upgrade kit installed next week. Can't wait to have the cam bolts gone for good and have everything adjusted correctly.
The double cardan joint at the transfer case handles the drive line angle better than the ball bearing stocker. At 4-5inches of lift in frt ,the bearing joint and shaft are at it's limit. If your vibe or noise increases in the next week or two, it's that top bearing screaming. Wheeling it will make it come on quicker, just highway driving , may last a little longer. When your pinion was rotated down to acheive better castor it kicked the end by the T-case up, at least on mine it did. Waaayyy better drivability, but the stock shaft can't handle much more than where it was at before my control arms, it tweaked it enough to give me a vibe and noise, so I ordered a new shaft.
You have different springs(maybe not as much lift) than I or KNTR, that may be your saving grace. Also you have a manual and I don't know if the way it attaches to the T-case makes it sit lower or not than an auto. Either way, I'm glad it's working for you, and I know I woulda like to have spent $500 somewhere else. But, watcha gonna do?I still like puttin new parts go on the JK needed or not.
Since they charged me $130 for the first alignment and then $56 for the second, I need to learn how to do this. HELP. I no mechanic here. 
The bolt and nut on the lower arms is 13/16 correct? Teraflex says 9/16.
I dont have a wrench big enough for the locking nut.

The bolt and nut on the lower arms is 13/16 correct? Teraflex says 9/16.
I dont have a wrench big enough for the locking nut.
Last edited by kntr; Jan 3, 2009 at 07:50 AM.
My current Jeep has never seen an alignment shop because I have my own garage. But just to make sure everything is good I have checked and rechecked stuff.
I suggest to get started buy a mechanics toolset for auto mechanics from craftsman (lifetime warranty). I have this one and I have added to it over the years but this is a great start. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...nics+Tool+Sets
You have different springs(maybe not as much lift) than I or KNTR, that may be your saving grace. Also you have a manual and I don't know if the way it attaches to the T-case makes it sit lower or not than an auto. Either way, I'm glad it's working for you, and I know I woulda like to have spent $500 somewhere else. But, watcha gonna do?I still like puttin new parts go on the JK needed or not.
You have different springs(maybe not as much lift) than I or KNTR, that may be your saving grace. Also you have a manual and I don't know if the way it attaches to the T-case makes it sit lower or not than an auto. Either way, I'm glad it's working for you, and I know I woulda like to have spent $500 somewhere else. But, watcha gonna do?I still like puttin new parts go on the JK needed or not.
The biggest difference comes from the transfer case in our Jeeps. X's and Sahara's front output is lower than that of a rubicon. That's why the Rubicon's have more clearance problems with the front drive shaft on the manual transmission linkage. The 1350 double cardon joint hits for sure with a manual on a Rubicon.


