Yemx

Hello all, new member here. I've been searching the web on info regarding a suspension set up I have in my head. I looked at some stickies here as well. I've even done specific google searches using this site as a source only. Anyhoo- before anyone starts, the "lift" I want to do is the way I'm dead-set in going, as it meets my current requirements.


I'd like to do a "low center of gravity" build- ultimately using 35" tires. As far as the suspension is concerned I'd like to just level the jeep out. The majority of the leveling kits essentially lift the front 2 inches, and the rear 1 inch. I'm not a fan of those pucks that nearly all of them use. My idea is:


Old Man Emu 2" front HD springs

Mopar HD rear springs (or some other set that will do approximately 1" of lift)

Adjustable end links front and rear

Full set of adjustable control arms


I haven't decided on which set of shocks to use- though I'm leaning towards a set of Rocksports. As far as the control arms, I'm thinking of using ReadyLift arms- suggestions on a good not-so-expensive (over $1k) set? Overall, it's a non-budget leveling kit I'm trying to put together... TIA for your thoughts

Yemx

For now it's mostly street driving, but ultimately this rig will be used for overlanding. For example- driving the Trans-America Trail. I didn't mention what the current and future use is.

nthinuf

How much weight are you adding? Those front HD coils gave me around 3.25" of lift and a very, very stiff ride. (running a full-width steel bumper and 9500lb winch with steel cable)

Mr.T

Mine is set up somewhat similar in concept, but with 33" tires -- Build thread is in sig below with some details that might help.

As mentioned above, the OME HD springs are meant for a pretty heavy Jeep. Somewhere on their site, OME has a very good catalog online with spring rates and weight ratings (typically at 2" lift).

The leveling concept of more lift in front, and a level Jeep with no cargo in the back doesn't make sense to me unless the Jeep hardly ever runs with weight added in back. The factory concept is similar to a pickup truck, it's level with some decent weight in the back. But the spring rates are relatively soft in a JK for good axle articulation, so it doesn't take that much weight to lower the rear an inch.

Regarding adjustable control arms, I never felt the need at 2" -- Rather have the stock pinion angle and the stock driveshaft over perfect caster at drive height.

When it comes to shocks, suggest thinking about up/down travel primarily. If keeping the stock bump stops and thus the stock axle up-travel, the shock compressed length should be stock (or less). Also keep in mind that bump stops compress a lot. I've been guilty of underestimating how far the axle will travel up -- Components that I thought had enough clearance turned out to hit each other. The extended length sets the max down-travel -- Beyond 1" inch greater than stock is the territory where brake lines and driveshafts probably need attention.

Yemx

Not sure how much extra weight to be honest- I know I want to do a JCR frame chop bumper up front with a Warn 9.5xp winch with synthetic line. I'd prefer steel cable though. I'm also considering a Motobilt frame chop rear bumper out back, with a Teraflex HD tire carrier, since I'm not going larger than 35. Throw in a DIY Goosegear plate system and cubbies, an extended range fuel tank (the 17+ gallon one), ACE belly plates and a hardtop (it's a soft top right now). There's gonna be more weight, but that'll vary- food, clothes, tent, chair... That kind of stuff. But if those OME springs are really stiff- well, I don't want an uncomfortable ride. I'm also going to be swapping out to a Tom Woods 1350 drive shaft (front and rear), to get rid of the silly unserviceable factory driveshaft. As far as shocks, I was considering Falcon 2.1's. Mr.T, I'll check out your build thread and see whats up. I originally planned on just going with a Metalcloak 2.5" Game Changer with those Falcon 2.1's. It may be easier than trying to fabercobble something together...

nthinuf

It would definitely be easier, just one click instead of planning out each purchase. But nothing wrong with the frankenlift approach for those willing to do a little research.

Plan on 3.25"-3.5" with those MC coils. (I'm over 4.5" with their 3.5", but I have been shedding weight where I could). They ride great, much better than the ome HD's, but it didn't sound like you wanted that much height? Anyway, good combo with the OME Long Travel shocks they used to sell before releasing the rocksports. (same specs and valving as far as I know, just repainted and slapped their name on them, maybe?)

Yemx

After reading through Mr.T's build thread on his 2" set up, I'm definitely going to go the same route. Overall I'm happy with the stock Rubicon set up, but after doing some light wheeling in WV, I'd like a touch more height and tire size, but keep the overall height low. Hence the want for a 2" lift and 35's w/flat fenders...

Hmmm... So with regard to shocks, Its between the Rocksports and the Falcon 2.1's. I like the Falcons simply because they're some beefy shocks. But at less than half the cost of the Falcons, and many good reports from other drivers, those Rocksports sure are tempting!! I'll have to sit down and take a look at the numbers though, as far as shock travel and such to see which set would be more appropriate for a 2"/35 tire combo.

Do y'all think 35's would require any more changes, when compared to 33's, with a 2" lift? I wouldn't think so, but the thought popped into my head, so I figured I'd ask.

I very much appreciate all the help! With so many choices out there, it's hard to really narrow down what a driver really needs (vs. wants)

Mr.T

If I was going to 35's on mine, what I'd probably change would be cutting the fenders plus wheel spacers for clearance. That's it, except I'd probably eventually change the gearing too to fit my preferences with a manual trans. I'm not hardcore enough to need stonger axles, but that hasn't stopped me from considering them.

karls10jk

Daily driver with 2-2.5" and 35's is a sweet spot. I've been running that way for a few years now and enjoy it. I went with the Metalcloak Frankenlift because I was upgrading pieces on a budget. I couldn't say how much height I've gained but it's enough to keep me happy. 2.5" Metalcloak coils, Rancho 5000x's, geo correction brackets, ext brake lines, track bars, rear track bar bracket. I've also added shock relocation brackets front and rear. Fronts keep the shocks off the frame, rears buy you a little more ground clearance. Both need to be considered before you buy shocks because they change the length of shock you need. They're not required at all on a daily.

Mr. T mentioned cutting fenders for 35's and that's what I've done. I cut the stock flares somewhere in between stock and how people usually cut them, erring on the side of more stock like. I'd like to go aftermarket (Nemesis or maybe the MCE style) but the price of stock is tough to beat, especially if you tear one up on the trail.

jadmt

For a daily driven rig that will see occasional overlanding duty just get an aev 2.5 lift and enjoy the ride.