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Teraflex Leveling Kit Questions

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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #101  
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No level shots. I installed the leveling kit in a couple hours. Super easy. Toughest part is getting the second side spring back in. Key is to get the frame jacked up as high as possible to start with. I left the rear spacers off and installed Spidertrax on all 4 corners. Because I did this my rock rails sit perfectly level from front to rear.

For me this is just an intermitten "lift", I hate any rake in a rig!

A flexy poser shoot testing rub and clearance. No issues.


Last edited by JocKy; Apr 27, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 12:34 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Ryan L
Look into a set of Spidertrax spacers. It seems to balance out the look of the subtle lift a bit.
can anyone tell me quantiy and size spidertrax i would need for a 09 2dr with 33 inch tires and stock 17' x 7.5" wheels? this TF leveling kit looks like a nice set up.

also, for me i have the money right now to buy whatever lift i want. the reason why i would choose this option is because it eliminates warranty issues and death wobble. It seems that this is best solution if those are priorities for someone (???)

thanks
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 12:47 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by bcboy1969
If they don't rub now they won't with the lift
i think he's running 32's right now and asked if the 33's on stock wheels can be used without spacers with this tf kit
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 06:18 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by CrazyShadow
Im currently running BFG KM2 285/70/17 on stock 17x7.5 wheels(No Lift) and I was wondering if the Teraflex leveling Kit would cause trackbars/suspension rubbing against my tires? Because there is only 3/8'' free between tire and suspension arm.

I know that with the TF 2.5'' BB, I will need wheels spacers...Is it the same issue with TF leveling kit? Will I need wheels Spacers?

I would prefer to run no wheel spacers, I dont want my tires to stick out of my fender. Right now there is still 1/2'' free before they stick out, and wheelspacer will add 1.5'' So they would stick out 1''

So is it possible to run 33x11.5 with TF leveling kit with no wheel spacers and no rubbing issues?
If I were you I'd get the Spidertrax just to be safe as the stock wheels have over 6" backspace. Plus you'll have much nicer stance and little better handling.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 05:27 AM
  #105  
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Default Looking for a level 2 inch lift

Originally Posted by Stuka
Its about 1.5" if you put the front and rear spacers in. If you leave the rears out, this would be around 1" of clearance.
1.5 is nice but does any body know if there is a good quality kit that gets you a true 2 inch lift and leaves her leveled out. I have a 1 inch differance from back to front. I have read on other post that you end up with issues if you get over 2. I was looking at the 2.5 coil lift but you end up with more lift than advertized. either way I am not wanting to take my tire size beyond 33/34. Is there any issue with stacking a half inch spacer in the leveling kit? Can I get the kit with the 2.5 spacers in the front and stack a 0.5 and the 1 inch spacer in the rear. I think that the sag from the LOD bumper and Waren winch up front would eat up the extra 0.5 inch in the front. for an overall 2 inch increase in the front and 1.5 in the rear, keeping it under the 2 inch issue mark? HELP
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:41 PM
  #106  
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You may want to send a pm to Dave at northridge, there's two 2.5 lifts BB and Coil. I believe the Coil 2.5 gives a total of 3"lift and the BB is more a true 2.5. I don't know any reason why couldn't add a spacer to the front to level it out.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #107  
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Thanks. I have been trying to call the up..maybe I will look him up on the site.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #108  
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Default Most important lesson you'll EVER learn with any install (here, TF leveling kit)

I recently put 33's (285/75R16) on my "mostlystock" 2010 JK, and tonight attempted to install the TeraFlex 1.5" leveling kit (TeraFlex SKU no. 1155200, approx $130). This kit lifts the front 2" and the rear 1", leveling the rake and giving a slight boost. Took me three hours to install the fronts. I'll tackle the rears tomorrow... It's a simple install but why did it take so long? Jeep slipped off the jack stands three times. Even with plywood underneath, the ground was too soft under them.

I've tinkered with cars for many years and thought I was pretty mindful of safety. Tonight's installation was a wakeup call. Some reminders... and fortunately I did follow most of these.

1) even when the vehicle is on jack stands, lay down a wheel and slide it under the frame, JUST under the frame (i.e. almost at jack stand's support height), so if the jack stand fails, you have a backup that will catch and support the vehicle after it falls say only 1/2 inch. JACKSTANDS ARE NOT FAIL-SALE. As you torque down bolts and wiggle and jiggle and tighten them, you're rocking the vehicle. This is exactly when it slipped. My "backup" wheel did its job -- supported the frame (with no damage to the wheel -- the tire sidewall cushioned it). Could be a life saver if you happen to be under the vehicle and can't back out in time.

2) if at all possible, don't get under the vehicle. I was able to do most of the wrenching (shock bolts, front sway bar links) from under the wheel well, and I deliberately positioned myself so I could spring backward if things slipped. Which is exactly what I did when that's exactly what happened. If I happened to be laying down under the jeep, I'd likely be crushed right now. If I hadn't slid the wheel under there anyway. Can't stress it enough... have something under there for when your jack stands fail.

3) keep a spare bottle jack within reach, wherever you are, and pre-set it for "jacking up" (tighten the release screw) and affix the lever handle ready to go. If you're lucky, when you're pinned you can reach it and save yourself. Scissor jack is no good - you can't operate it one-handed with simple lever action.

4) have an escape route and be ready to go. The warning sign for me was the creaks and pops. Started slow, so I backed off QUICK and in almost slow motion the jeep slid to the side and off the stands. Get clear, FAST, because there's nothing you can do to stop it from falling once it starts.

5) block the wheels on the corners you're not working on. Block them on both front and back of the tires, even if you're on a level surface. Simple to do, easy to forget.

6) put it in gear if you have a manual transmission. Set parking brake too.

7) solid ground is key. Don't work on dirt or grass, even with plywood underneath. Find terra firma! Before I tackle the rear portion of the lift tomorrow, I'm moving the jeep to the (flat) driveway....

Can't stress the safety enough. Too easy to get crushed. A slip of the jack stands reminds you of how easy it is to get killed.

Well, that's it. Forget all the tips and lessons about installing the lift... these ones are far more important. Fortunately no damage done to jeep or me. Ground was soft, slips were slow with soft landings in the dirt and sand.

Hate to sound like an old fart but safety first, it's the truth.

The backup plans are critical. If one fails the other catches it. It's like gun safety... one of the reasons you follow ALL the basic rules (muzzle in safe direction; don't put finger on trigger; know what's behind target; etc..) is that if you happen to screw up ONE of them, the other will back it up and save you or someone else from harm. You have to follow all of them in order for this "backup plan" to work. Have backup plans. They could save your life when one safety mechanism fails.

Last edited by mostlystock; Sep 30, 2010 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by mostlystock
I recently put 33's (285/75R16) on my "mostlystock" 2010 JK, and tonight attempted to install the TeraFlex 1.5" leveling kit (TeraFlex SKU no. 1155200, approx $130). This kit lifts the front 2" and the rear 1", leveling the rake and giving a slight boost. Took me three hours to install the fronts. I'll tackle the rears tomorrow... It's a simple install but why did it take so long? Jeep slipped off the jack stands three times. Even with plywood underneath, the ground was too soft under them.

I've tinkered with cars for many years and thought I was pretty mindful of safety. Tonight's installation was a wakeup call. Some reminders... and fortunately I did follow most of these.

1) even when the vehicle is on jack stands, lay down a wheel and slide it under the frame, JUST under the frame (i.e. almost at jack stand's support height), so if the jack stand fails, you have a backup that will catch and support the vehicle after it falls say only 1/2 inch. JACKSTANDS ARE NOT FAIL-SALE. As you torque down bolts and wiggle and jiggle and tighten them, you're rocking the vehicle. This is exactly when it slipped. My "backup" wheel did its job -- supported the frame (with no damage to the wheel -- the tire sidewall cushioned it). Could be a life saver if you happen to be under the vehicle and can't back out in time.

2) if at all possible, don't get under the vehicle. I was able to do most of the wrenching (shock bolts, front sway bar links) from under the wheel well, and I deliberately positioned myself so I could spring backward if things slipped. Which is exactly what I did when that's exactly what happened. If I happened to be laying down under the jeep, I'd likely be crushed right now. If I hadn't slid the wheel under there anyway. Can't stress it enough... have something under there for when your jack stands fail.

3) keep a spare bottle jack within reach, wherever you are, and pre-set it for "jacking up" (tighten the release screw) and affix the lever handle ready to go. If you're lucky, when you're pinned you can reach it and save yourself. Scissor jack is no good - you can't operate it one-handed with simple lever action.

4) have an escape route and be ready to go. The warning sign for me was the creaks and pops. Started slow, so I backed off QUICK and in almost slow motion the jeep slid to the side and off the stands. Get clear, FAST, because there's nothing you can do to stop it from falling once it starts.

5) block the wheels on the corners you're not working on. Block them on both front and back of the tires, even if you're on a level surface. Simple to do, easy to forget.

6) put it in gear

7) solid ground is key. Don't work on dirt or grass, even with plywood underneath. Find terra firma! Before I tackle the rear portion of the lift tomorrow, I'm moving the jeep to the (flat) driveway....

Can't stress the safety enough. Too easy to get crushed. A slip of the jack stands reminds you of how easy it is to get killed.

Well, that's it. Forget all the tips and lessons about installing the lift... these ones are far more important. Fortunately no damage done to jeep or me. Ground was soft, slips were slow with soft landings in the dirt and sand.

Hate to sound like an old fart but safety first, it's the truth.

The backup plans are critical. If one fails the other catches it. It's like gun safety... one of the reasons you follow ALL the basic rules (muzzle in safe direction; don't put finger on trigger; know what's behind target; etc..) is that if you happen to screw up ONE of them, the other will back it up and save you or someone else from harm. You have to follow all of them in order for this "backup plan" to work. Have backup plans. They could save your life when one safety mechanism fails.
what he said - nice post.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #110  
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Never heard of anyone using jack stands on anything but concrete. Pretty scary! Glad your ok.
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