Teraflex Leveling Kit Questions
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
I've only had my JK for two weeks and this was my first mod. I can't believe how big of a difference the subtle 1.5" (overall) lift makes. The stock 32s will be ok for now, but this kit just begs for a 33" tire.
BEFORE
AFTER (rain
)
I used gpwpat's install technique of leaving the wheels on and letting the JK support itself. It took me longer than 40 mins, but it definately saved time versus removing the wheels and using multiple jacks/jackstands.
I did make a couple of minor tweaks to the install. You must remove the front sway bar end links (since you will replace them), but you only have to disconnect the bottom of the rear sway bar end links. Theres no need to remove the rears completely. Also, I had to remove all four brackets that hold the brake lines to the frame (not just the rears). Near the brake line at each wheel hub, there is a plastic covered wire (ABS sensor?) thats held down by plastic push pics. I pulled the push pins free, which gave me the extra few inches to jack up the corner of the frame. I had no other snags.
I didn't attach any front/rear pics, but I did the 1.5" Spidertrax spacers at the same time which is a must to 'balance' out the new look. The best part about these types of mods is that it's subtle enough to make it stand out from the stockers, but doesn't scream 'look at me.'
BEFORE
AFTER (rain
)I used gpwpat's install technique of leaving the wheels on and letting the JK support itself. It took me longer than 40 mins, but it definately saved time versus removing the wheels and using multiple jacks/jackstands.
I did make a couple of minor tweaks to the install. You must remove the front sway bar end links (since you will replace them), but you only have to disconnect the bottom of the rear sway bar end links. Theres no need to remove the rears completely. Also, I had to remove all four brackets that hold the brake lines to the frame (not just the rears). Near the brake line at each wheel hub, there is a plastic covered wire (ABS sensor?) thats held down by plastic push pics. I pulled the push pins free, which gave me the extra few inches to jack up the corner of the frame. I had no other snags.
I didn't attach any front/rear pics, but I did the 1.5" Spidertrax spacers at the same time which is a must to 'balance' out the new look. The best part about these types of mods is that it's subtle enough to make it stand out from the stockers, but doesn't scream 'look at me.'
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Saint Augustine, FL
I haven't noticed any difference in comfort since the spring does not change. The shock damping distance may change a bit, but not enough for me to notice a difference. Body roll will obviously increase.
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 923
Likes: 0
From: SPACE
Finally got the front installed today! Was hesitant cause even though sunny the temps were in mid 30s, but I wasn't gonna be a pussy. Even with a decent floor jack(21") I had to remove tire's. Started with passenger side and still struggled getting enough droop(luckly I had a 50lb bag of salt that helped as I was on my own) the driver side was a breeze. One note is that the old links were kind of a bitch to get off and used Vice grips. The rear set looks to be easier but will have to wait along with the Spidertrax.Ride is great and no steering adjustment needed. Pic's will come later as well but I work slow.lol.
JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
I installed my leveling kit a few weeks ago. In all it took me 40 minutes.
I did not remove the tires. this saves alot of time.
1. remove swaybar links front and rear.
2. un bolt bottom of shock absorbers from axle. front and rear
3. jack up one corner at a time with a large floor jack. when doing the rear and the frame gets above the tire, remove the 10mm bolt holding on the brake line to the frame. I have a really large floor jack this is the biggest thing that saved me so much a time. a high lift would also work here.
4.when the jeep is articulated (one corner at a time) with the jack the spring comes out of its pocket, slide spring out, slide spacer in, slide spring in Lower jack. this process is less than a minute each corner.
5. repeat on next corner.
6. re bolt shock absorbers to axle
7. bolt in new sway bar links and attach rear
8. test drive and center stearing wheel if needed.
Note: by not removing the tires the vehicle supports itself at all times I only needed to put a jack stand under the frame after I jacked up with the hydraulic jack. This saved alot of time. I was watching the breather lines and locker wires, but did not feel at any time that it was at a point that I needed to disconnect them, as I would stop then the spring came free from the frame. The rear was the hardest as I had to compress a coil just a smidge to get it in. I almost thought I needed to undo something else but I got it in with my hands a hammer to tap it in and a large screwdriver to pry it just into the retainer on top of the axle. Overall it is 8 easy steps and I did not use power tools as my compressor is not wired into my new garage yet. Overall I am very happy with the kit. for the money it gets the jeep to a better stance until I can afford a real lift and new tires.
I did not remove the tires. this saves alot of time.
1. remove swaybar links front and rear.
2. un bolt bottom of shock absorbers from axle. front and rear
3. jack up one corner at a time with a large floor jack. when doing the rear and the frame gets above the tire, remove the 10mm bolt holding on the brake line to the frame. I have a really large floor jack this is the biggest thing that saved me so much a time. a high lift would also work here.
4.when the jeep is articulated (one corner at a time) with the jack the spring comes out of its pocket, slide spring out, slide spacer in, slide spring in Lower jack. this process is less than a minute each corner.
5. repeat on next corner.
6. re bolt shock absorbers to axle
7. bolt in new sway bar links and attach rear
8. test drive and center stearing wheel if needed.
Note: by not removing the tires the vehicle supports itself at all times I only needed to put a jack stand under the frame after I jacked up with the hydraulic jack. This saved alot of time. I was watching the breather lines and locker wires, but did not feel at any time that it was at a point that I needed to disconnect them, as I would stop then the spring came free from the frame. The rear was the hardest as I had to compress a coil just a smidge to get it in. I almost thought I needed to undo something else but I got it in with my hands a hammer to tap it in and a large screwdriver to pry it just into the retainer on top of the axle. Overall it is 8 easy steps and I did not use power tools as my compressor is not wired into my new garage yet. Overall I am very happy with the kit. for the money it gets the jeep to a better stance until I can afford a real lift and new tires.